Oh I'm not having that problem. I was just speaking hypothetical.

 

Does moving the battery to the trunk make it harder to start on colder days especially?
I would think unless you have a thick enough cable it would lose some power with all of the extra feet to travel.

 

No, the cable I have is either 2 or 1 gauge. It's big!! Never been a problem. Oh you can see it, It's 2 gauge

 

Pro50- If you think about the way the driveshaft and rear end spins, the natural tendency is for the right rear to spin- the way the driveshaft spins in the rearend and through the carrier it just torques the entire back end. The opposite is true for the front. The same theory applies, and makes it pull the front left. The entire car twists to make the front left pull. You'll see that on a lot of high horsepower cars. BTW: Pulling the front swaybar will make the left front lift more, and take weight off of the front end.

As far as the battery in the trunk...you'd have to check with your local track. Most require an NHRA approved ( I know Moroso makes one) battery box that vents outside the car. Also, a "push to kill" or "turn to kill" ****/switch is required out the back somewhere. A couple suggestions from my local track is under the license plate (remove the plate to race) or to drill a small hole through the tail light and run a rod through to the kill switch. I agree though- though loosing a few front end pounds with the battery in the trunk vs. a drycell, it does make the engine bay a lot cleaner, and gives room for an aftermarket ignition, or other goodies.

 

thought it need to be full box to pass tech?

 

I have to laugh at most of you with all this crazy talk about a battery relocation I just pull out my NAPA battery and put in my drycell wieghting at a whoping 9 pounds,bought the same as the wieght you guys add with all the wiring and box

 

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