smog pump removal...
#2
RE: smog pump removal...
Unfotunatly it will cause you to fail(I found out the hard way on my truck). As far as cams go I would go with the Ford Racing E303 cam, this will still allow you to pass the emissions.
#3
RE: smog pump removal...
HAHAHA... People...this why 5.0 people get made fun of... It's a SMOG PUMP to pass the SMOG TEST...Hahaha Just joking around!
Yeah, a cam can make you fail too, but the FMS E-303 won't. The smog pump takes MAYBE 4-5hp's away fromy our car...why not just get some U/D's and get that back from your other accessories?
Yeah, a cam can make you fail too, but the FMS E-303 won't. The smog pump takes MAYBE 4-5hp's away fromy our car...why not just get some U/D's and get that back from your other accessories?
#4
RE: smog pump removal...
Ok just checking, yea I have underdrive pulleys. I was just hearing the hype about taking off the somg pump to free HP.thank for the help, im going to look into getting new lifter/cam/rocker/rollers ect, I have a ticking problem coming from my engine, its a lifter problem.
#5
RE: smog pump removal...
Ha Ha, no emissions for me! Farm land is great, in this region they tried to pass smog testing but it fell thru because of all the farmers with work trucks. The O-Zone around here can suck it!
#6
RE: smog pump removal...
Someone else has the same topic going on this board. Don't be foolish like the people answering that topic, there is no "shorter" serpintine belt to use if you physically remove the air pump.
Ford, Jeg's, Summit, etc. sell a REPLACEMENT for the sir pump. All it is is a base which mounts a pulley the same size as the one used on the air pump. You retain the same serpintine belt length that is original to your car.
Problem might develop without the air pump though, carbon build-up in the convertors. When the convertors clog the engine can't get rid of the used exhust gases and you loose power like you would never believe unless you had experienced it. I mean like full throttle in all four gears to go 300 feet! When I pulled off the "H" pipe I found a cup full of carbon encased, loose pellets in each side of the "H" pipe.
Gas milage was worse 10 mpg.
But the real question is, are you running the car on the strip and need to lower E.T's or are you doing this simply because you have heard it makes the car run faster E.T.'s? If the vacuum controls connected to your air pump are functioning properly you'd be better off leaving the air pump on as the computer system is based upon it being there.
Ford, Jeg's, Summit, etc. sell a REPLACEMENT for the sir pump. All it is is a base which mounts a pulley the same size as the one used on the air pump. You retain the same serpintine belt length that is original to your car.
Problem might develop without the air pump though, carbon build-up in the convertors. When the convertors clog the engine can't get rid of the used exhust gases and you loose power like you would never believe unless you had experienced it. I mean like full throttle in all four gears to go 300 feet! When I pulled off the "H" pipe I found a cup full of carbon encased, loose pellets in each side of the "H" pipe.
Gas milage was worse 10 mpg.
But the real question is, are you running the car on the strip and need to lower E.T's or are you doing this simply because you have heard it makes the car run faster E.T.'s? If the vacuum controls connected to your air pump are functioning properly you'd be better off leaving the air pump on as the computer system is based upon it being there.
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