rebuild?
#12
RE: rebuild?
about 1/2 quart every 3000 miles
I do know that the lifters weren't in good condition. A few were good, but about 4-6 weren't looking too great. So should I just replace the lifters? Pushrods & rockers seemed to be ok.
Also when replacing bearings, I don't need to have the crank or rods reground again do i?
But like I said oil pressure stays up in the 40's when the engine is cold, even at 500rpm. Just when it gets warm it drops down low. At around 800rpm oil psi is around 15
I do know that the lifters weren't in good condition. A few were good, but about 4-6 weren't looking too great. So should I just replace the lifters? Pushrods & rockers seemed to be ok.
Also when replacing bearings, I don't need to have the crank or rods reground again do i?
But like I said oil pressure stays up in the 40's when the engine is cold, even at 500rpm. Just when it gets warm it drops down low. At around 800rpm oil psi is around 15
#13
RE: rebuild?
If you think the lifters might be damaged, replace them. You don't want to lose a roller lifter while the engine is running. It doesn't sound like bearings though. If the clearances were excessive enough to cause low oil pressure, your rods would be throwing a lot of oil off onto the cylinder walls and overloading the oil control rings, and you'd be burning a lot of oil. It could be a partially stuck pressure releif valve. Are you also certain that your oil pressure guage is correct?
#15
RE: rebuild?
Engine rpm goes up, pump spins faster and moves more volume making pressure go up, once oil psi reaches a preset level, a spring loaded valve(usually a ball check valve in the pump on most cars) opens up and releives some of the oil flow directly back into the pan to prevent pressure from getting too high. A 60psi valve maintains max oil pressure at 60psi etc. Sticks shut and oil pressure can get too high and blow out gallery plugs, sticks open, and at low rpm you have low or no oil pressure.
#16
RE: rebuild?
Oil pressure gauge is an aftermarket mechanical & I'm positive it's accurate & the oil pump was replaced when the oil pump shaft twisted in two before. Possible the oil consumption is from valve seals.
I don't know how to test the lifters, the only reason I say a couple seemed in bad shape was because of how easy I could push them down with my finger. Quite a few were extremely hard to push down, but like 4-6 of them were really easy & I could do it with my bare finger.
I don't know how to test the lifters, the only reason I say a couple seemed in bad shape was because of how easy I could push them down with my finger. Quite a few were extremely hard to push down, but like 4-6 of them were really easy & I could do it with my bare finger.
#17
RE: rebuild?
If you are on a budget you can get away with used rollers. Your ticking could be a partially collapsed lifter, or clogged oil passages leading to the rollers. If it was noticable when you pushed down on them with your finger may be an indication of that. As far as your oil pressure goes, I wouldn't be overly concerned. Ford are notorious for low oil pressure. My mechanic buddy said he doesn't get concerned as long as you carry about 10psi for every 1000rpms. My f-150 caries about 5psi at an idle and has done so for many years. I'm sure I'll get sliced for this post, but if you don't have it at the strip every weekend I wouldn't worry too much
#18
RE: rebuild?
Awesome, that's what I needed to find out.
I am on a budget here. I don't make much money to begin with & on top of that the money I do make gets taken away from bills & gas. A friend has a set of used lifters & pushrods he said I can have. Is there anyway to test them to find out which ones are good & bad?
& Honestly I've only had this car at the strip one time in my entire time of owning it. I was fairly happy with an 8.14 on street tires. (1/8th mile, not 1/4th) I'm not a big fan of the strip really.
I am on a budget here. I don't make much money to begin with & on top of that the money I do make gets taken away from bills & gas. A friend has a set of used lifters & pushrods he said I can have. Is there anyway to test them to find out which ones are good & bad?
& Honestly I've only had this car at the strip one time in my entire time of owning it. I was fairly happy with an 8.14 on street tires. (1/8th mile, not 1/4th) I'm not a big fan of the strip really.
#19
RE: rebuild?
it kinda sounds like you have absolutely no idea whats going on, yet people tell you about what your doing wrong and you dont wanna hear it.
your running a cam with .542 lift with stock springs. how your not bending pushrods is just friggen amazing. the ONLY thing i can think of is when your spring binds, the pushrod is collapsing the hell out of the lifter, and then they pump back up, then they collapse, then they pump back up.
you want your stuff to run the right way, but you want to half *** things. you say your on a budget, but then you say 5.0's are a dime a dozen to replace.
put a smaller cam in that f*cking thing, or buy different springs...... ******* [8D]
your running a cam with .542 lift with stock springs. how your not bending pushrods is just friggen amazing. the ONLY thing i can think of is when your spring binds, the pushrod is collapsing the hell out of the lifter, and then they pump back up, then they collapse, then they pump back up.
you want your stuff to run the right way, but you want to half *** things. you say your on a budget, but then you say 5.0's are a dime a dozen to replace.
put a smaller cam in that f*cking thing, or buy different springs...... ******* [8D]
#20
RE: rebuild?
Not trying to come off as an *** lol, I just didn't understand the cam comments... If you were in my shoes & it had been reliable for that long, would you think that the cam WOULDN'T work? The noise didn't come until after the rebuild & I know the lifters are the problem, I'm just not sure if I need to replace the rockers & pushrods with it, as in, do the pushrods wear a groove into the rockers or lifters, enough to make it only cause problems if I just replace the lifters. The lifters are extremely old, I'm more curious if I can just replace the bad ones instead of the entire set.
Around here 5.0 H.O. are all over & what i'm getting at there is they sell for $150-200 running, a complete set of new lifters alone is $110.
Around here 5.0 H.O. are all over & what i'm getting at there is they sell for $150-200 running, a complete set of new lifters alone is $110.
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