luizGT91

Hi guys, back from the track, very disappointed, 14.07I just looked at the timeslip and threw it away, that was the best time, when i got there i ran 14.58!!Car feels like its running too rich, I was sure getting in the 13s someone here told me 12s were dreaming a bit I guess its true to make it worst my transmision past away on my way home,
So IĀ“m going to build another engine from the ground my goal is 12.40s or less with A/C power steering etc.
I thought AFRs Edelbrock rpmII, and a compcam X cam can do it, any other suggestion?? in the last modified mustangs magazine a guy is running almost my set up just with LT headers and a E303 and a holley systemax intake 12.42 all motor
Mods, on the sign,
Help please! donĀ“t wanna switch to the dark side(Chvy)

samseed101

Well instead of scraping everything why not at least try to figure out what the problem was?

What are your 60' times? If those are horrible, then that means you probably have ****ty traction and are just spinning. How was your launch?

What are your dyno numbers?

Did you actually get a tune after installing those mods or did you just throw them in and drive away? If you did get a tune, was it a real tune or did someone just adjust timing and fuel pressure?

Looking at your mods... If you can't break into teh 13s with that then you either need to work on your suspension mods or your driver mod.

luizGT91

all was just thrown there, just timing and no fuel regulator, car seems to rich, when i launch from 1st to 2nd it seems like itĀ“s having lots of fuel cause it loose strenght then i feel ending 3rd and all 4th like is not pulling anymore, a friend told me my heads flow asthe portedGT40s that i need AFR 185s or TrickFlow twisted wedge heads, and another cam iĀ“m not such a bad driver, no missed powershifts, do you think my setup with suspension get me there??? i was thinking lower, upper control arms and springs but those ETs felt like a kick in the butt

samseed101

Well if you have too much power and can't launch then that is a problem. And getting an engine with more power will only make it worse. A good set of U/L control arms will help out. Maybe even think about a set of slicks for the track or at least DOT drag radials if you want street / strip driveability.

As far as tuning goes, I'm guessing that your lack of a tune could cause problems as well. Rather than wasting money on a new setup, take her to a dyno and get a good tune. A simple wideband O2 sensor will let you know if you're running rich. If you can't afford that, at least take it for a long drive through various conditions (idle, WOT, cruising, etc.) and have someone take a look at your KAMFR. That can at least give you a general idea as it will tell you if your computer is adding or reducing fuel over the long run.

If you get a good tune and get suspension work done, there's absolutely no reason why you shouldn't be breakin well into the 12's with your current setup. Control arms can be had for a coupme hundred and a tune...well that depends on where you go. Give that a shot before wasting money by giving up on a godo engine.

luizGT91

Thanks sam, car will go to my buddies shop on friday to replace transmision, i was running M/T 26/10.5/15 ET Street at 10lb some time my car has trouble idling but just sometimes, from the back the fuel pump seems like turning on and off, i was guessing my MAF is having trouble, anyway how much would it be to get dynoed and tuned?
and what is KAMFR??

samseed101

Okay, so you got a good set of tires. Were you sticking pretty well or did it seem like you were spinning? It's very easy to slip or spin and not even know it. It's easy to overlook. You could be having MAF or even fuel pump / delivery problems. Not getting enough fuel could cause problems too. If you haven't done it already, it never hurts to clean your MAF with some sensor cleaner. You can get it at parts stores for $5 - $7 depending on where you go. A dirty MAF would cause idle problems as well.And then there's the obvious... vacuum leaks, lack of a tune, running pig rich, etc.

The cost of the tune depends on where you go. It could be anywhere from $100 - $500 or so. On average around here they typically charge $200 - $300 to tune it and run it on the dyno a few times. if you know what you're doing or if you aren't afraid to learn, you can always get a handheld tuner (prices range from $380ish to $900ish) and tune it yourself.

KAMRF is the "Keep Alive Memory ReFerence. The eec is constantly monitoring your a/f ratio and trying to achieve a 14.7/1 ratio during normal driving/low loads. This correction is stored in KAM as a multiplyer and is called Fuel trim . This makes the most of fuel economy and emissions and gives reasonable driveability. Anyway, by monitoring KAMRF you can tell if the eec has to add/pull fuel to correct the a/f ratio and ideally you would want to have your car tuned such that the eec does not have to add or pull fuel at all. A KAM reading of "1.00" on means just that, the eec is neither adding or subtracting fuel at that particular rpm/load. Numbers less than "1.00", for example "0.90" would indicate the eec is removing10% fuel to achieve the 14.7/1 a/f ratio. Numbers higher than "1.00" would show the opposite. The eec has a 25% range plus or minus for corrections so the lowest KAM you could see would be 0.75 and the highest would be 1.25 which show the 25% swing available.

So basically, if you are monitoring your KAMFR/ fuel trim and you see that instead of 1.00, it is reading 0.80, then you know that you are running rich and the computer is trying to pull 20% fuel to compensate. Once you know that, you can go into the MAF transfer function and slightly lean out either the entire part of teh MAF curve, or just the part that is running rich.

Besides KAMFR, youcan also monitor "LAMBSE" which shows the targeted a/f ratio at any given time. This one is usually constantly changing as you drive and it merely shows what a/f ratio the eec is targeting at that very moment to compensate for the difference in actual a/f ratio vs the desired a/f ratio. It will also constantly be "swinging" up and down even when the tune is dead on because the eec varies the a/f above and below the targeted 14.7/1 a/f ratio a certain amount in normal operation to keep tabs on the 02 sensors, whether or not they are working. If the 02 sensors don't respond quickly enough to the changes in commanded a/f then the sensors are going bad and the EEC will go into a fail safe limp mode. The car will run as safe as possible and the check engine light will come on. This, BTW, is why people see CELs come on and off when they have faulty O2 sensors.

So try to simplify it even more... LAMBSE is the A/F ratio that you car is targetting at that exact moment in time. If it's targeting 9 then you know that it's trying to richen up the mixture. If it's targeting 15, then you know it's tryin got lean you out. And KAMFR is what it is doing over the long term (either adding or subtracting a certain percentage of fuel.)

As you can imagine, it's not as easy as using a wideband O2 sensor, but if you have a lot of patience and time you can often get a decent tune by monitoring those numbers. Like I said, it takes awhile though. You have to make teh adjustment, disconnect the battery to reser the KAM, drive for awhile, check the changes, lather rinse releat...

gspfunk

I agree that a tune will help you get the most out of your combo, but start w/ the basics. You did what a lot of people on here do.....all power, no suspension/traction/chassis. You'd get better times by doing all suspension and chassis in stock form than the route you took.

Start w/ an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. You're screwing yourself by using the stocker w/ 24 #'ers. Check your KOEO/KOER codes and see if you're getting a lean code from one of the banks. I had a bad O2 that was causing the passenger side to run rich b/c it was adding fuel thinking it was too lean.

If you'd rather just give up and start over instead of fixing it, shoot me a PM and I'll take those heads from you.

Get some U/L control arms. UPR makes a good set for ~$200. Get better shocks/springs than the stock setup. Don't get a drag suspension unless you plan on running it at the track a lot. XL subs will strengthen the chassis and help you get the power to the ground as well.

Even w/o the tune, the above things should get you into the 13's or better, if you know how to drive it.