yea don't go with a solid mount for the tranny. the tranny is mount is suppose to have some deflection

 

there are no downsides to solid mounts. girls will love your car more since it will have a stronger vibrator effect. if you go with solids on the motor go with solids on the tranny. general rule of thumb is both mounts need to be the same material for optimum performance. solid-solid, poly-poly,rubber-rubber. call pst if you don't believe me. that's where i learned it from even though they are in the business to sell suspension parts. the suspension of the car is where you find the give if not you'll just be three wheeling cruising down the strip.

 

There is a huge warning on the box saying If i run solid motor mounts I must run a solid Trans mount

 

That's crap. Why?

KO- matching is optimal, you're right. But the minimal amount of time you'll pick up in the 1320 isn't worth the money you'll spend on part wear. Race cars usually pull off solid trans mounts because their tube frames are a lot stiffer, and there is a lot less chassis flex. We don't have that convenience, so wear is a much bigger issue

 

The 10.70 Dodge Challenger I raced for years had steel motor mounts and a standard, NAPA store trans mount.
Never had any trouble............

 

Have u ever seen a car with a massive system over years? The entire interior falling apart because of vibrations? Now picture that in ur car with solid mounts. I don't see y u would run a solid when u can run polyurethane. Solids are great, don't get me wrong, but I wouldn't wanna run them on a street car. There's a reason ford thought there should be a shock absorber there besides just comfort.

 

if i built a tube frame car i would use motor plates instead of motor mounts. if one is concerned about wear, use the rubber or poly mounts. i've never seen it but from what i've read and heard that solid motor mounts and a softer tranny mount leads the cracked tranny cases and bellhousing problems. then there's someone who could argue the same about solid-solid set-up too and i would then say some of both are part of misaligned parts due to manufacturer's tolerances and also installing mechanic.motor plates can cause serious problems if the installing mechanic doesn't take the time to set them right and weld them in properly. the 1320's fine but there's more to life than the 1320, there's curves and hills. driveline alignment is critical for longevity

 

here is a nice alternative: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...p;autoview=sku