TIM350

I had the same problem when my car was sitting there and it would idle no less than 1800 rpm. It ended up being the Idle air control valve being stuck open. So if your engine is fuel injected, that could be the problem.

5.0stanger

I am also thinking that, uless you taped the TB closed or something. Did you run your codes? Did you use a gasket between your upper and lower intake?

The stalling problem sounds like a VSS issue.

txjason1

just a thought, check the line that goes to the Vacuum canister under the dash to supply vacuum to the Heat/AC system.
That was the problem I had, it wasnt 1700 RPM but 1200.
Good luck.

aode08

UPPER EASY

LOWER-








18.

Apply a 3/16 in. (5mm) bead of sealer to the outer end of each intake manifold seal for the full width of the seal. Make sure the silicone sealer will not fall into the engine and possibly block oil passages.
19.

Using guide pins to ease installation, carefully lower the intake manifold into position on the cylinder block and cylinder heads.

After the intake manifold is in place, run a finger around the seal area to make sure the seals are in place. If the seals are not in place, remove the intake manifold and position the seals.

20.

Make sure the holes in the manifold gaskets and the manifold are in alignment. Remove the guide pins.
21.

Install the intake manifold attaching bolts and tighten, in 3 passes of the sequence:
1.

First tighten to 8 ft. lbs. (11 Nm).
2.

Then tighten to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
3.

Finally, tighten the bolts to 23-25 ft. lbs. (31-34 Nm).
22.

Install the heater tube assembly to the lower intake manifold studs.
23.

Install the water pump bypass hose on the thermostat housing. Install the hoses to the heater tubes. Connect the upper radiator hose.
24.

Connect the fuel lines, then temporarily connect the negative battery cable. Cycle the ignition to pressurize the fuel system and check for leaks. Turn the ignition key back and forth (from ON to OFF) at least 6 times, leaving the key ON for 5 seconds each time. If no leaks are found, disconnect the negative battery cable and continue the installation.
25.

If removed, install the distributor, aligning the housing and rotor with the marks that were made during removal. Install the distributor cap. Position the spark plug wires in the harness brackets on the rocker arm cover attaching stud and connect the wires to the spark plugs.

If the engine was moved with the distributor out, rotate the crankshaft until the No. 1 piston is at TDC of the compression stroke. Align the correct initial timing mark with the pointer, then position the distributor in the block with the rotor at the No. 1 firing position and install the hold-down clamp. For more information on distributor removal and installation, and for helpful hints on figuring out when the engine is at TDC, please refer to the distributor and timing procedures in General Information & Maintenance in this repair guide.

26.

Install a new gasket and the upper intake manifold. Tighten the bolts to 12-18 ft. lbs. (16-24 Nm). Install the cover plate and connect the crankcase vent tube.
27.

Connect the accelerator cable, TV cable and cruise control cable, as equipped, to the throttle body.
28.

Engage the wiring connectors and vacuum lines as tagged during removal.
29.

Connect the coolant hoses to the EGR spacer.
30.

Install the air intake duct assembly and the crankcase vent hose.
31.

Connect the negative battery cable, then fill and bleed the cooling system.
32.

Run the engine to normal operating temperature and check for leaks.
33.

Operate the engine at fast idle. When engine temperatures have stabilized, check the intake manifold bolt torque values.
34.

If the lower intake was removed and/or the distributor was disturbed, check the ignition timing.

strangebrew

WOW ok so if you are so sure this is a vacum leak then place a fingure over the IAC intake holeit should idle fine.Other wise if it dies your IAC is junk.I tried every advice i could get to correct my idle problem!

How did i fix it?

Bought a new IAC this fixed it some what but what i did was bought a sheet of gasket at kragen traced the new gasket out onto thesheet and when cutting out the holes for the IAC i cut only half out kinda like half moons ya might say...This fixed all my idle problems and revs holding to long while shifting

Or you could be adjusting stuff waaaay wrong

learn how to set your base idle
Dont use that screw to adjust your idle after you set the base idle other wise you throw off your tps wich throws off your fuel psi wich can make it idle wrooooong.

Some one here knows the the link to doing this im sure.if not i will come back and explain.....