idea for cam...
02-26-2005, 02:11 AM
#1
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idea for cam...
Ok guys, i got pretty much all the mods i need for now. but i will be needing a cam and heads soon.
heres what i had in mind. I want a good all motor cam that will be great with a supercharger too. BUT i want it to be custom grind with RETARDED AMOUNTS OF LIFT mmk..
i want a cam with 0.600" lift @ 1.6 rockers so when i swap to 1.7s i can have more lift.
point is i cannot have all this lift on my stock motor SO. can i run a cam with lotta lift with the 1.5 ratio rockers UNTIL i get a new bottom end with relieved pistons where I can run the 1.7s?
tell me what you think.
by the way i want all this lift because of the crazy ramp rates, everything will be setup for revvin fast and high, same with keeping my bottom end destroked and boring it out to 308 or 310 (aftermarket block that is).
heres what i had in mind. I want a good all motor cam that will be great with a supercharger too. BUT i want it to be custom grind with RETARDED AMOUNTS OF LIFT mmk..
i want a cam with 0.600" lift @ 1.6 rockers so when i swap to 1.7s i can have more lift.
point is i cannot have all this lift on my stock motor SO. can i run a cam with lotta lift with the 1.5 ratio rockers UNTIL i get a new bottom end with relieved pistons where I can run the 1.7s?
tell me what you think.
by the way i want all this lift because of the crazy ramp rates, everything will be setup for revvin fast and high, same with keeping my bottom end destroked and boring it out to 308 or 310 (aftermarket block that is).
02-26-2005, 11:36 PM
#2
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Join Date: Feb 2005
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Posts: 299
RE: idea for cam...
A few things you will have to consider with a high lift cam,
1. Piston to vavle clearance, on a high lift cam everything has to be checked and rechecked to make sure your pistons and valves do not meet by accident.
2. Special pistons or flycutting your existing pistons may be required.
3. More lift means bigger and stronger valve springs to be able to hold the valve off the seat and to be stable at doing it so you don't have valve float. This equates to more wear at an accelerated rate, as well as more possibility of parts breakage.
4. With going to the 1.5's you will only see about 10% loss of lift which will be roughly .540 which would still require looking at clearances.
5. When you flycut or have to go dished you lose compression and performance.
6. To be able to utilize the cam you will need one helluva set of heads that flow real well. This is a trade off however as low lift flow numbers usually suffer and the car will be a pig off the line and will not do much until the power band of your cam which just guessing would be somewhere aroung 3k or so.
7. There is no real gain in going with monster lift, how fast an engine revs is relative to alot of things. Parts choice is probably the number one thing here, light parts are easier to get moving and quicker at it. A good set of titanium retainers and locks as well as valves would be much more useful and desireable is an application where you want quick and high revs. Also lighter pistons, rods, and crank would help out alot.
8. Bottom line, you need to match your cam, heads, and realistic theoretical rpm range together.
1. Piston to vavle clearance, on a high lift cam everything has to be checked and rechecked to make sure your pistons and valves do not meet by accident.
2. Special pistons or flycutting your existing pistons may be required.
3. More lift means bigger and stronger valve springs to be able to hold the valve off the seat and to be stable at doing it so you don't have valve float. This equates to more wear at an accelerated rate, as well as more possibility of parts breakage.
4. With going to the 1.5's you will only see about 10% loss of lift which will be roughly .540 which would still require looking at clearances.
5. When you flycut or have to go dished you lose compression and performance.
6. To be able to utilize the cam you will need one helluva set of heads that flow real well. This is a trade off however as low lift flow numbers usually suffer and the car will be a pig off the line and will not do much until the power band of your cam which just guessing would be somewhere aroung 3k or so.
7. There is no real gain in going with monster lift, how fast an engine revs is relative to alot of things. Parts choice is probably the number one thing here, light parts are easier to get moving and quicker at it. A good set of titanium retainers and locks as well as valves would be much more useful and desireable is an application where you want quick and high revs. Also lighter pistons, rods, and crank would help out alot.
8. Bottom line, you need to match your cam, heads, and realistic theoretical rpm range together.
02-27-2005, 12:25 AM
#3
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
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Posts: 7,657
RE: idea for cam...
ok what is the max lift you can run on a stock motor, also what ratio are the stock rockers like i have a .522 lift cam could i run 1.7 rockers? Dbeck i would not run a whole lot of lift and dur cose then its a pain in the *** to drive also like birdman said you will need heavy duty valve springs and retaners and ****.
02-27-2005, 03:20 AM
#4
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RE: idea for cam...
ORIGINAL: birdman076
A few things you will have to consider with a high lift cam,
1. Piston to vavle clearance, on a high lift cam everything has to be checked and rechecked to make sure your pistons and valves do not meet by accident.
2. Special pistons or flycutting your existing pistons may be required.
3. More lift means bigger and stronger valve springs to be able to hold the valve off the seat and to be stable at doing it so you don't have valve float. This equates to more wear at an accelerated rate, as well as more possibility of parts breakage.
4. With going to the 1.5's you will only see about 10% loss of lift which will be roughly .540 which would still require looking at clearances.
5. When you flycut or have to go dished you lose compression and performance.
6. To be able to utilize the cam you will need one helluva set of heads that flow real well. This is a trade off however as low lift flow numbers usually suffer and the car will be a pig off the line and will not do much until the power band of your cam which just guessing would be somewhere aroung 3k or so.
7. There is no real gain in going with monster lift, how fast an engine revs is relative to alot of things. Parts choice is probably the number one thing here, light parts are easier to get moving and quicker at it. A good set of titanium retainers and locks as well as valves would be much more useful and desireable is an application where you want quick and high revs. Also lighter pistons, rods, and crank would help out alot.
8. Bottom line, you need to match your cam, heads, and realistic theoretical rpm range together.
A few things you will have to consider with a high lift cam,
1. Piston to vavle clearance, on a high lift cam everything has to be checked and rechecked to make sure your pistons and valves do not meet by accident.
2. Special pistons or flycutting your existing pistons may be required.
3. More lift means bigger and stronger valve springs to be able to hold the valve off the seat and to be stable at doing it so you don't have valve float. This equates to more wear at an accelerated rate, as well as more possibility of parts breakage.
4. With going to the 1.5's you will only see about 10% loss of lift which will be roughly .540 which would still require looking at clearances.
5. When you flycut or have to go dished you lose compression and performance.
6. To be able to utilize the cam you will need one helluva set of heads that flow real well. This is a trade off however as low lift flow numbers usually suffer and the car will be a pig off the line and will not do much until the power band of your cam which just guessing would be somewhere aroung 3k or so.
7. There is no real gain in going with monster lift, how fast an engine revs is relative to alot of things. Parts choice is probably the number one thing here, light parts are easier to get moving and quicker at it. A good set of titanium retainers and locks as well as valves would be much more useful and desireable is an application where you want quick and high revs. Also lighter pistons, rods, and crank would help out alot.
8. Bottom line, you need to match your cam, heads, and realistic theoretical rpm range together.
birdman i think you missed my point. all i really want is a very very very high lift cam running 1.5 roller rockers, the heads are aftermarket though, AFR165s, i wont run a big cam in the stock engine without the heads. so the question is if this has been done before as effectively reduce the lift because of the stock bottom end piston/valve issues. and AFTER i swap in the new bottom end with relieved pistons, i can also swap in the high lift 1.7 RR also increasing the lift of an already high lift cam. again the 1.5s are for now, until i get a suitable bottom end with the right pistons then the 1.7s for lotsa lift...
02-27-2005, 01:06 PM
#5
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RE: idea for cam...
well a big lift cam in this engine with those small 165's will kill low end and will never dev. high rpm hp due to the head design....in order for it to run well it's a package deal think about ALL parts working in sync to deliver good hp in the right rpm range......so 185's would be needed
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