67mustang302

Yeah, alphabet soup isn't the best way to go. Old single pattern cam that hasn't been changed in what, 15 years? There are better cams out there. I'm running a grind from Crane that's a 1.7rr Cobra replacement cam and it has a CARB EO# if you need to pass emissions. You'll make better power with a better cam, but in the end it depends on how the whole engine is built up. What's been done to the heads? What's compression at? Internals, intake, exhaust etc etc. What gears do you have? That's gonna impact what cam you want

cleanfitty

By tis time wouldn't the damage be done if there were going to be some interference???

greenstreak9205

it wont damage it when ur turnin it over by hand because if there was a serious problem and the valve will obviously hit the piston, you wont be able to turn it over. you want like a minimum of like .100" or somethin? some body correct this if im wrong since i probably am[:@]. but when ur checkin the clearance and turnin it over, you have to use a solid lifter since the hydraulic will collapse slightly causing it to not give a correct reading

jnsnams

depending on the heads you have, if its a cobra i know for a fact you cant run a f303, wich has 1.7 rockers but being gt40 heads the valves are bigger and wont clear, on a regular gt its close for the f303, mine held a f303 fine, mines a 95 model...i have had friends that try to run a f303 and it worked ok for them too...

mjr46

No, because if your smart when you rolll the motor over BY HAND.....that's why you do it by hand with a socket wrench 15/16 to be exact then when and if you feel it start to bind then you stop = common sense....and if you did damage it you'd have to be quite strong to push it past the bind............and Greenstreak ...yes you are correct...what I use are two moddified stock lifters that I pulled out the spring/lash adjusters and replaced them with washers so no collapse occurs and I get a true reading on PTV........Ijust don't list every little detail cause then each reply would be a page long

Joel5.0

It doesn't matter what the people say, you have to get your answer (regarding PtV that is) from the one that counts........ your engine. You could have an F-cam setup clear on a stock block, but not clear on another stock block configuration...... manufacturing tolerances vary from engine to engine..... reason why you need to check + check for the correct pushrod length + check/set valve train geometry + degree the cam to make sure it's installed correctly, dot-to-dot w/out degreeing could be 4 deg. advanced or retarded due to timing gear tolerances, cam tolerances, crankshaft keyway tolerances.

SuperFox88

I'll just not worry about it and go with the E cam and 1.7's

mjr46

[sm=chairshot.gif]you still need to check ptv and set up the valvetrain geometry correctly by measuring for proper length push rods and all

SuperFox88

hmmm. Alright, so i take it the stock pushrods wont work?

dimebag

...you have alot to learn...(shyt, so do i... but here....)

answer a few questions for me

whats lift with 1.6s? now what is it w. 1.7s? e cam
how about the f cam w. 1.6s?
are you replacing the lifters?
your getting RRs it sound like, how do u plan on setting them up?
whats the length of ur pushrods now? how will you go about checking and making sure ur using the right size?

see the thng that makes cam's a lil more complicated is that what works for one set up, wont work for another, stock **** is not consistant... and when you think about it... your going from .444 to .512(f w. 1.6s) in lift, doesnt look like alot, i mean **** its less then .1 of an inch... but it makes a huge differance, and can cause all sorts of problems

bottom line, look into this process more...