Idle problem
#11
RE: Idle problem
yea I looked at it when i had the egr plate on, and the intake inlet, is a little smaller, not alot though, but i wasnt in the mood to pull the intake off and open it up to match, so i figured it would be okay for now..it will come off in a while for intake and headers and what not...well I gave up on it for today..besides now i gotta go buy new tools, and figure out why that damn screw wouldnt turn...but if you are free whenever you get back, i would definitely appreciate the help
#13
RE: Idle problem
yeah, i had a fun time setting my idle when i installed my pp tb and spacer the directions suck. you have to loosen a small nut behind the idle set screw(8mm i think). then you have to adjust it with the allen key, then tighten that nut when finished. i held a wrench on the nut, and messed with the screw, then held the allen key, and turned the nut so that the idle wouldn't change. a 2nd pair of hands would help. also, clean the IAC and the MAM if you can. just spray the IAC down with a lot of carb cleaner several times, and clean in the hole with some q-tips. then bolt it on and crank it up.
when setting idle, unplug the IAC sensor and turn the idle screw to where you here the engine fixin to stall, then turn it about a quarter turn to give it some air. that is where i would set it at. if you have someone with you, get them to sit in the car, and then set the idle with the IAC off at around 650-700. when you reconnect the IAC sensor, the rpms should go up around 100-150 give or take. if you don't like it idling around 750-800, then just keep the IAC plugged in and set the idle normally. when you get it where you want it, run the car for like 15min to let the computer relearn it. or just drive it around.
check this site out. its a must when messing with idle: http://www.muscularmustangs.com/maintain.php
make sure there are no loose connections or leaks around your MAM and air intake box(or CAI). oh, and make sure that the IAC is on the TB when you crank it, or it will redline the car(big hole in side of TB).
the backfire could have been caused from a multitude of thinks. was it an intake backfire, or an exhause backfire???
if you were near atlanta i would gladly help you out
when setting idle, unplug the IAC sensor and turn the idle screw to where you here the engine fixin to stall, then turn it about a quarter turn to give it some air. that is where i would set it at. if you have someone with you, get them to sit in the car, and then set the idle with the IAC off at around 650-700. when you reconnect the IAC sensor, the rpms should go up around 100-150 give or take. if you don't like it idling around 750-800, then just keep the IAC plugged in and set the idle normally. when you get it where you want it, run the car for like 15min to let the computer relearn it. or just drive it around.
check this site out. its a must when messing with idle: http://www.muscularmustangs.com/maintain.php
make sure there are no loose connections or leaks around your MAM and air intake box(or CAI). oh, and make sure that the IAC is on the TB when you crank it, or it will redline the car(big hole in side of TB).
the backfire could have been caused from a multitude of thinks. was it an intake backfire, or an exhause backfire???
if you were near atlanta i would gladly help you out
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