what does it take to make a fox stang hook?
#21
wow, I feel like my old fox was a POS.. I didn't have much done but all I could do was smoke first and chirp into second.. lol
I don't think anyone said this but have you tried removing the front sway bar at the track? it will allow the the front to travel higher transferring more weight to the rear.
I don't think anyone said this but have you tried removing the front sway bar at the track? it will allow the the front to travel higher transferring more weight to the rear.
#22
In order:
Number one: these cars love chassis flex, so conquor that before you get it launching hard for two reasons; if your car is a daily driver youre going to find more squeeks and rattles than you thought you had and two its easier to keep the tires planted if your geometry is tracking straight (let alone easier to keep straight when you wheelie). So to do that, subframe connectors and a big beefey rear sway bar.
Number two: To get the power to the ground; Control arms (upper and lower with polyeurathane bushings) and a good set of tires (tires being drag radials or slicks not street tires).
Number three: weight transfer; loose springs / shocks up front, tight in the rear, and unhook front sway links.
Do that and GO! (gears arent going to help your traction issue, but if you haven't put any in yet, do it)
Number one: these cars love chassis flex, so conquor that before you get it launching hard for two reasons; if your car is a daily driver youre going to find more squeeks and rattles than you thought you had and two its easier to keep the tires planted if your geometry is tracking straight (let alone easier to keep straight when you wheelie). So to do that, subframe connectors and a big beefey rear sway bar.
Number two: To get the power to the ground; Control arms (upper and lower with polyeurathane bushings) and a good set of tires (tires being drag radials or slicks not street tires).
Number three: weight transfer; loose springs / shocks up front, tight in the rear, and unhook front sway links.
Do that and GO! (gears arent going to help your traction issue, but if you haven't put any in yet, do it)
#26
and im not sure about foxes..but with the SN cars the drag launch kit doesnt lower the hard hardly at all..maybe like half inch if that but i would imagine they dont on the foxes either. theres a member on here with a blue notch, who im pretty sure has the drag launch kit, he would be able to answer for sure.
#27
eibach drag kit doesnt lower hince drag kit eibach sport lowers like 1in front 1.5in. back eiback pro kit lowers like 2in. front and 2.5 back if you aren't hooking now you damn sure dont need to lower it. weight transfer makes it hook. my 98 was lowered 2in. and it would chirp street tires with 20psi in 4th at the track. DO NOT LOWER unless you run slicks! good luck man!
#29
Hey! The only thing left stock on my car is my engine, everything else has been changed so I can roughly assume your power (comparing it to mine). I had the same problem; went to the track and spun 1st-3rd with 2.2 sixties. To fix that I put steeda superlite drag springs, adjustable upper and lower control arms and subframe connectors. The drag springs didn't lower my car at all, so I bought the Eibach proseries springs for the front which really made the difference. IMO, gives it that "aggressive" look; high in the back low in the front. Even on street tires she just squats right down and launches straight. But to completely stop spinning I bought a set of Hoosier slicks to really hook up at the track. With the 4:10's my best sixty to date is 1.65 and 13.4 @ 101mph in the 1/4 mile. Good luck bro!
Last edited by cch; 11-19-2008 at 05:01 PM.
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