yeah emery cloth but NOT sand paper...

 

mow mandatory is block machining?

i found another kit that is basically the same thing, except it comes with the entire rotating assembly, for 300 more its a summit brand, how reliable would this be

but yeah, back on block machining, is it a kind of, if you dont do this, your ****ed, or, its a good idea, but not completely necesary

thanks guys

 

With every engine, machine work is determined after checking all the things that can be machined. Usually, the crank doesn't need anything but a good hand polishing (with 400 grit emery LOL) unless it's been the victom of a spun bearing... then a freshly ground crank is in order or a new or re-maned unit will be needed. (Make sure you get the correct size bearings if anything is done to the crank) The block usually only needs honed if the cylinder walls look good, but may need bored and honed if there is deep scoring... then you must get bigger pistons and have everything balanced. The decks can be checked with a good straight edge for levelness. Usually, they are OK unless the engine has been overheated and/or has had a head gasket problem before the rebuild. Line boring is usually not required either, but should be done if you plan on building a high revving engine like in the 6500-7000 rpm range. You'll have to get it apart and check all this stuff... be sure to get a good dial gauge to check the bores... and check them in many places, like at the bottom, 1/4 the way up, 1/2 the way up, 3/4 the way up and at the top. They can't be out of round, wider at the top than at the bottom or egg shaped. After honing and perfectly round and with no taper, none of the cylinders can be more than .006 larger than stock width or you can't re-use the stock pistons... even then, you need to use "file to fit" rings to get the proper end gap.

 

okay cool, thats less than i thought was needed, he will be a happy man to hear that, lol

if thats the case, we will probably get them honed just to make sure everything is good (the cylinder walls look really good, no scoring at all) the only problem is there seems to be build up on the top 1/4 inch, but im guessing that is normal


explain on how these file to fit rings work? they need to have a certain gap? i was under the impression that the smaller the gap the better...

 

it depends on the shape of the deck of the block and the cylinder bores also. you can go the extra miles like i did but im doing it for a reason. i did get mine line bored and i had my rotating assembly balanced to 0oz for faster and high revving the motor. but thats taking things extra steps that some dont do or dont think is necessary. it really depends on how far you want to go with it and how much money you have.

 

File fit rings come with a chart to help you decide what gap you should go with. A different gap is required depending on if the engine is NA, turboed/supercharged or gets the gas.