Portmaster

I run my engines in on the dyno at 3000 rpm for thirty minutes on conventional oil and use Comp Cams break in additive. I change the oil over to Synthetic and I change it again at 1000 miles. I use a magnet strip on the oil filter and cut the filter on the first change to check for particles in the oil. It's every 4K on full synthetic after that.
If you run it in, in the car just go out for a casual 30 minute ride (roller cam engines) just down the highway. It needs to be under load diung break in so it doesn't run lean and hot. If it's flat tappet you will absolutly need to keep the rpm moving from 2500 to 3000 for around 25 minutes while the cam develops a wear patern.

FuzzyDiceRule

cool, thanks for the response


as for rotating assy installation, i just need to get a good amount of lube on the bearings, correct? what about the cylinders when installing pistons, should i get some motor oil on the walls for good measure? anything else like this that is easily looked over?

Night Terror

http://www.muscularmustangs.com/2005/torquespecs.php

Portmaster

On the main and rod bearings I use Clevite 2800B2 assembly lube. The reason for using assembly lube here vs oil is the assembly lube stays in place until start up. You don't have to use a lot of it but rather just give the bearings a good coating making sure you get the sides of the thrust bearing. I also put a little on the cam gear and if it's going to be awhile before start up I'll put some on the cam journals (not the lobes). I use plain old cheap 30W motor oil when intstalling the pistons. I have a dry and really clean cylinder and just before dropping the pistion into the bore I pour oil over the rings (I use a pump oil can) and put a good bit of oil over the rings,wipe the skirts, make sure of my ring clocking and push them down the bores. To much oil just makes it messy and it just drips out.

I also soak the timing chain and roller lifters for a few hours just prior to installing them. Most good chains are true roller and while they have some grease in them from the factory I do this so the chain doesnt have a dry start up and the first few minutes of run time can get you not only some stretch but some material residue. I soak the roller lifters so the small needle bearings in the roller will fill with oil again to prevent dry start up.

When assembling the top end I put a drop of assembly lube inside the pushrod cup of each lifter and the top of each push rod and on top of the valve just before the rocker goes on. If using roller rockers I will soak them in oil as well.