94StinkinLincoln

I saw the dyno graph and the time slips of a pump gas 289 (10.5:1)
canfield 195's
CI custom cam
vic jr intake i believe it was
430bhp
11.3 @ 120 first pass.

mjr46

with the right parts combo, you can get a 302 to do that or build a mild 347 and it should do that right out of the box

ctgreddy

how light was the car and what suspension/tire did he have? those are 2 HUGE factors.

94StinkinLincoln

He had a parker funnel web, he needs a untouched vic jr.
no vacuum pump yet

engine specs: http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,14223.0.html

http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,19927.0.html -----
Well, I made four passes at Famoso in Bakerfield CA yesterday. Zero tuning to anything. All that I did was put on the front skinnies, rear slicks, and adjust the pressure in the slicks to a high / conservative 17.5 psi. Didn't touch anything after setting the psi all night. Was a little lazy I guess and was just trying to develop a feel for the new combo. Plus it's been two and a half years since I've made a pass.

Car is a '65 Mustang fastback with simple Shelby style (more road course) suspension. 100% street car. T5z transmission, 9" rear with Detroit Locker and 4.30 gears, M/T ET Drags 26x8.5, and skinnies in the front.

Engine is a very street friendly (spends most of it's time driving around in nice weather and the streets and highway) .060 over 289, 10:1 comp to be pump gas friendly, basic Probe SRS piston, stock block, stock crank, stock rods with entry level ARP bolts, Canfield 195 heads (through Jay), TLSR cam from Jay, Parker Funnel Web intake (bought used from Jay), 950 Holley HP based Pro Systems carb, cheap Hooker Comp 1 5/8" to 3" collector headers, 3" exhaust with Magnaflows and no H or X pipe, and no power adders. I essentially gave Jay a basic short block 289 to work around with a strict budget. He essentially cam up with the important parts to meet my goals and tight budget. I then put it all together in my dirty garage.

Due to the suspension and fact that the slicks are four plus years old and have sat around for two and a half years I didn't expect much. Especially didn't expect much from my driving as I have just putted around on the streets with this and done a few burnouts and short stabs of the throttle for fun.

So I got in line to make my first pass with very low expectations. I was surprised how nervous I was until my buddy reminded me how long it had been since we'd made passes.

First pass:

60' - 1.736
1/4 mile - 11.753
mph - 118.67

Second pass:

60' - 1.636
MISSED THIRD!!!

Third pass:

60' - 1.706
1/4 mile - 11.613
mph - 119.42

Fourth and final pass:

60' - 1.636
330' - 4.710
1/8 - 7.281
mph - 96.32
1000 - 9.505
1/4 - 11.382
mph - 120.35

First three passes I shifted right about 7,000 rpm and lifted off the throttle on the shift because I'm rusty and just plain chicken. Last pass I shifted about 7,200-7,300 rpm and stayed on the throttle on the first to second shift then got chicken and lifted on the other shifts. With a higher shift point tuning to the engine, clutch, driver, and slick psi I think there is a good amount more left in it.

Thanks Jay for making another customer more than happy!!! When we first started talking about this 289 I would have been ecstatic if it ended up running 11.753 at 118 after getting it all dialed in. Running that off the trailer with some much against it (driver and car) shocked the heck out of me. Thanks again for the parts and LOTS of help.

Hamutoff

for your goal of 400 HP only, hard parts only, you must get support systems: fuel, cooling, etc

If stock short block, stock displacement of 302 cu in is to get to 400fwhp...
(peak...)
you must rev. or go power adder.

If 400hpNA is the goal you could consider this: decent mechanical cam with great heads

REV & Big Breath!
To rev get a solid cam. Its easier go go flat tappet. This will take some guesswork out of the equation and be cheaper. Go no wider than 110, this is a good comprimise for your stock-remainding' overall vehicle the EFI will survive on 110.......

Example 1 Just about $100 (not damn bad you could always try 1.7:1 RAR)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-212341/
Single Pattern Advertised Duration 276
Lift 0.514 in.
Lobe Separation (degrees) 110

Example 2: $140 (better choice)
Camshaft, Mechanical Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 282/282, Lift .528/.528
Lobe Separation (degrees) 110

Now you need execellent heads: bump up you compression ratio with a small chamber, use large CNC ports,

The execellent ratio of hte AFR means you dont need the crutch of a dual pattern cam to "fix" the e to I imbalance of stock sbf heads
Airflow Research 1452 - AFR 205cc SBF Outlaw Race Heads

build a simple screamer and get your 400 hp. like I said, other systems like fuel need to be there. also look at a victor or systemax intake
----------------------------------------------

hell if carcraft could get 400 hp out of a STOCK 5.0 with the *STOCK CAM* (and 165 afr heads) you can do it with an aftermarket cam... and EFI: (carcraft had a carb on their setup)
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...dup/index.html

holyshift

Just throwing this out there,I bracket raced for 3 years on a T5 from a 96' v6 car and launched at 5000 and powershifted at 5500....but held together suprisingly....but it is possible

88Stang331

if your running the stock block, just keep in mind that a great many blocks have been broken in half by not so much the power, but the rpms that it took to get there. With a H/C/I it can be done, however for drivability and longevity, it might make more sense, and be more fun to make all that power earlier and go with a supercharger with mild boost.

red99droptop

Thanks a ton for all the replies and information, I did not expect to get as many responses as I did. I am starting to think about getting a supercharger with the required supporting mods first as 88Stang331 had stated. Then possibly go with new transmission/rear end and then build the motor at a later date. Thanks again for all the information.