luckythirteen13

is your maf calibrated for 24's.

if you have a friend you can borrow a new maf from, do it. c&l mafs are garbage



and for the record, you dont "let a motor break it", you break it in by beating the sh*t out if it. my motor had less then 1mile on it before i was making wot pulls down the street, the rings need pressure to seat

sn95_331_GT_ yellow

+1
if its gonna break, its gonna break.
might as well get it over with sooner than later.
drive it the way youre going to anyways. if youre gonna drive like a *****, break it in like a *****. if youre gonna romp on it, go for broke, literally. if parts arent forcefully exiting the engine, youre not trying hard enough lol.

Bubba 95SN

Check with vacum gauge for possible clogged exhaust? Two motors same symtoms check what was on both eliminate from list of probable causes. First return to shop that installed engine and give them a chance to have a better day than when they last had car. Do not be ugly, calmly explain situation and any reputable shop will correct issue. Surely do not need bad advertisement. Catch more flies with honey than poop.

mjr46

^^^I agree he should return to the shop, but he most likely paid for an install and if this prob existed with the previous motor and now with the new motor, the shop is not liable for troubleshooting this problem and fixing it since they did not create it, furthermore if going from a stock motor to this stroker, having had many examples as such, a customer is always informed that doing such a swap, I adhere to the estimate: however tuning the new set up + uncovering any Pecker tracks to get it to run appropriately, is not part of the "install of a performance enhanced motor" and will be billed to the customer, now if the shop left stuff unhooked then they must hook it up but if and when hooked up properly it still does not work then it's a he said she said deal:?.........I spent 10-15 hrs ONCE i INSTALLED MY FRESHLY rebuilt 306 with a full h/c/i in my 89 tweaking and tuning and uncovering things such AS a bad ecm, bad o2's, bad nuetral switch, wrong style maf, bad plug wires, and a bunch of test rides so ECM could learn adaptives once all issues were resolved....now grant it this was my own ride but had it been a customers ride, in no way would I have been responsible or liable for such tuning/troubleshooting, an install is an install, .....in my case I transfered over from the old engine all parts I thought looked good as I am sure did the shop that installed the OP'S engine, if any transfered parts are bad, that is where you'll have to start paying to resolve issues......

Bubba 95SN

I agree that most likely more money will be involved. Engine built one place installed at another. Obvious from prior engine not being correct that some of transferred parts are defective. Get it dialed in can become expen$ive. Was trying to explain not to become unreasonably agitated and trying to go off on shop service writer. That does no good. To obtain his desired effect will require more time, work and ca$h.

AdderMk2

I wish I knew where this guy lived... if it was close to me i'd go take a look at the car and help him figure out wtf is up..

sick95gt

Thanks for all the replies and tips. I am going to try to answer all the questions at once. The MAF is calibrated for 24# injectors. I don't really have a friend that has another one for me to try out. Is there a way to see if it is not calibrated properly? As far as the water pump and timing cover, the old engine actually not stock. It was a rebuilt 302 block and I really don't know what year the block was from, but the stock 95 water pump and timing cover worked, so I can say it was probably a 94-95 if all the accy's worked, right? Then they used the old timing cover from the most recent engine for the new one. He said something about them being both double roller styles. The fuel filter and pump are about 4 years old, but have maybe 500 miles on them since the car was down for so long. It was literally just sitting for that long. I started and ran it for a little bit at least once a week to 2 weeks. I brought it back to the shop and he is going to check out the timing. He said he is going to bump it and make sure it does not ping. Then he is going to road test it until its right. I know that it needs to be tuned, so it won't be 100% but should run like absolute sh*t. There is a speedway that has many tuning shops and I want to go get it dynotuned. They also do diagnostics, so I might have to pay them to figure out whats really wrong in terms of wrong or bad parts.

projectresto83

Well you would still want to change that fuel filter. It probably has some rust in it. Good luck with them fixing it.