Wiring 5.0 speed density, deleting stuff
02-26-2010, 08:18 AM
#1
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: loenen, netherlands
Posts: 127
Wiring 5.0 speed density, deleting stuff
As some of you know, i'm working on an 1970 coupe. I have an 1986 5.0 Ho out of an Lincoln that's in right now. Now i want to make a start with the Wiring harness.
Where i'm from, i don't need all the EGR or emissions stuff. So i'm deleting as much as possible.
Now i want to delete some parts from the harnass, such as:
-EGR vacuum regulator
-WAC relay
-Canister Purge solenoid
-Air manag 1 and 2 solenoids.
Can these be cut out of the harnass without getting fauls in the memory? Or do i have to trick/bypass the EEC.
Also another Question, at te HEGO's Where do the 2 Power GND go to? The way it's drawn it's kinda confusing.
Thanks for your help,
Steffan
Where i'm from, i don't need all the EGR or emissions stuff. So i'm deleting as much as possible.
Now i want to delete some parts from the harnass, such as:
-EGR vacuum regulator
-WAC relay
-Canister Purge solenoid
-Air manag 1 and 2 solenoids.
Can these be cut out of the harnass without getting fauls in the memory? Or do i have to trick/bypass the EEC.
Also another Question, at te HEGO's Where do the 2 Power GND go to? The way it's drawn it's kinda confusing.
Thanks for your help,
Steffan
02-27-2010, 02:02 AM
#2
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: BC
Posts: 31
A couple things to keep in mind.
The HEGO, or heated exhaust gas oxygen sensors have to get up to operating temperature before the computer can go into closed loop.
You have power for the heater circuit which is separate from the O2 sensor. If you take the O2 sensor out of the picture you won't go into closed loop. If you remove the heater wiring, you will have garbage information to the EEC until they are heated by the exhaust, which could pull a code.
You will stay in open loop/limp in mode and you won't get optimal timing and you will also always run rich if you disable the oxygen sensors. If you pull the rear sensors and leave the fronts, you will pull a code.
If you plan to remove the egr valve, you better make sure you know whether you have a positive or negative backpressure egr valve, cause if all you do is cut and plug hoses and wires, you could have an ugly situation, if it causes your egr valve to remain open which means its open when it shouldn't. (ie rough idling and lowered power).
There are some solutions to these things on the net to trick the computer into thinking they are still there, by inserting a value it would expect. Its the same type of thing guys will do in some turbo applications to fool the computer into increasing the fuel injector on time to prevent leaning out when the turbo gets up to full boost.
Good Luck!
http://onlymustangfords.com
The HEGO, or heated exhaust gas oxygen sensors have to get up to operating temperature before the computer can go into closed loop.
You have power for the heater circuit which is separate from the O2 sensor. If you take the O2 sensor out of the picture you won't go into closed loop. If you remove the heater wiring, you will have garbage information to the EEC until they are heated by the exhaust, which could pull a code.
You will stay in open loop/limp in mode and you won't get optimal timing and you will also always run rich if you disable the oxygen sensors. If you pull the rear sensors and leave the fronts, you will pull a code.
If you plan to remove the egr valve, you better make sure you know whether you have a positive or negative backpressure egr valve, cause if all you do is cut and plug hoses and wires, you could have an ugly situation, if it causes your egr valve to remain open which means its open when it shouldn't. (ie rough idling and lowered power).
There are some solutions to these things on the net to trick the computer into thinking they are still there, by inserting a value it would expect. Its the same type of thing guys will do in some turbo applications to fool the computer into increasing the fuel injector on time to prevent leaning out when the turbo gets up to full boost.
Good Luck!
http://onlymustangfords.com
02-27-2010, 03:57 AM
#3
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: loenen, netherlands
Posts: 127
Thanks, for you input, but i think you misunderstood me. I never said i wanted to remove the HEGO's. I'm an mechanic in an BMW bike shop and i know how fuelinjection works. Just in some area's i'm not allknowing.
To get rid of the EGR is simple, the whole unit has allready come off and will be blocked-off with an plate. I'll bet that if the connectors aren't connected, the EEC will record an fault. I'll need to find somethink that will make the EEC think that the EGR is still working. With some help from an former colleque, i'll figure that one out.
Just have a look at my project, it'll give a much better picture of what i'm going to do with it.
https://mustangforums.com/forum/clas...g-opening.html
As fot the:
-WAC relay
-Canister Purge solenoid
-Air manag 1 and 2 solenoids.
I need the know if when thses are disconnected, will the EEC record an fault?
To get rid of the EGR is simple, the whole unit has allready come off and will be blocked-off with an plate. I'll bet that if the connectors aren't connected, the EEC will record an fault. I'll need to find somethink that will make the EEC think that the EGR is still working. With some help from an former colleque, i'll figure that one out.
Just have a look at my project, it'll give a much better picture of what i'm going to do with it.
https://mustangforums.com/forum/clas...g-opening.html
As fot the:
-WAC relay
-Canister Purge solenoid
-Air manag 1 and 2 solenoids.
I need the know if when thses are disconnected, will the EEC record an fault?
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