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Replace TFI Module - HELP! :)

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Old 07-28-2011, 09:08 AM
  #1  
89StangGTConvertible
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Default Replace TFI Module - HELP! :)

Hey guys - got a new TFI Module (burning these things up like crazy in the heat). I also got some quicksilver thermal compound paste to apply to the back, and the TFI removal tool.

Ok, I am new to this... can someone please walk me through the steps? I know I remove the dizzy cap (duh!), what next? I have to turn the dizzy in order to get to the back TFI bolt. How do I do this exactly? I remove the dizzy hold down bolt? If so, where is it located? Any special wrenches? What do I mark (please be very descriptive) in order to get the dizzy back to original timed position - as you may have guessed, I don't have a timing light!

Next month I have someone installing 3.73 gears (hi Mike!), and I am going to see if he will remote locate the TFI module (http://www.mccullyracingmotors.com/i...es/tfikits.htm). But, in the meantime, I wanna drive!!!

Thanks for any help! I plan on doing this tomorrow afternoon.
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Old 07-28-2011, 09:44 AM
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nitrous_bob
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it would be pure luck to get it back timed perfectly. it could be close but not perfect.... if you just mark the base of the dizz and the lower intake for a reference point. put it back in but if you turn it you'll be off...and you need to kind of let it turn as it goes back in anyways to seat all the way.

the hold down bolt is a 1/2" bolt right there you cant miss it

craftsman kakse a dizzy wrench for like $8.00 worth it's weight in gold.

just borrow a light from someone, even the parts store will let use it for free. might have to "rent" it for free. just a deposit on a card

its easy...you just need to get it close enuff to start then time it.

to time it CORRECTLY !!! start it..remove the SPOUT connector, adjust the timing, tighten it down...verify it again...then replug the SPOUT in

b4 you you do any of it...get under the car with some 600 grit, and clean off the balancer marks..then fill in with white paint or chalk...wipe it clean and the marks will stay in the grooves and numbers.

you want the 12* that is in between the 0-30 renge thats BTDC...not the 20-0 (ATDC) range or whatever the high and low end numbers are

its all super easy, no probs
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Old 07-28-2011, 09:52 AM
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mjr46
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Originally Posted by 89StangGTConvertible
Hey guys - got a new TFI Module (burning these things up like crazy in the heat). I also got some quicksilver thermal compound paste to apply to the back, and the TFI removal tool.

Ok, I am new to this... can someone please walk me through the steps? I know I remove the dizzy cap (duh!), what next? I have to turn the dizzy in order to get to the back TFI bolt. How do I do this exactly? I remove the dizzy hold down bolt? If so, where is it located? Any special wrenches? What do I mark (please be very descriptive) in order to get the dizzy back to original timed position - as you may have guessed, I don't have a timing light!

Next month I have someone installing 3.73 gears (hi Mike!), and I am going to see if he will remote locate the TFI module (http://www.mccullyracingmotors.com/i...es/tfikits.htm). But, in the meantime, I wanna drive!!!

Thanks for any help! I plan on doing this tomorrow afternoon.
take a sharpie, draw a line on the dizzy base, then a coressponding one on the block lip/base, rotate dizzy, unscrew tfi, coat back of new tfi reinstall, rotate dizzy back to marks made, and install hold down, I only use ford motorcraft tfi's as I told you , more expensive but last longer
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Old 07-28-2011, 11:18 AM
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4rdnut
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If you have a pointy tiny paint brush, or a toothpick, dip it in white paint and draw a thin line across the distributor base and block, let it dry good and when you spin the distributor it will break the paint line and it will be easy to perfectly line back up. I also sand smooth the metal bottom of tfi module until it is perfectly flat, you will be able to see how uneven the bottom is by looking at the shiny sanded areas versus the untouched areas. I use fine emory cloth and a marble counter top, so you need a big piece of sand paper or emory cloth and hold the module and run it on the sandpaper in all different directions until all shiny smooth. Then you only need a thin coating of heatsink compound. The only good tfi modules are the expensive motorcraft ones.

Last edited by 4rdnut; 07-28-2011 at 11:22 AM.
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Old 07-28-2011, 01:24 PM
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89StangGTConvertible
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Thanks everyone - I feel confident tackling this tomorrow!!

This is truly the BEST forum out there, hands down, period!!!
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Old 07-28-2011, 02:10 PM
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AdderMk2
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Originally Posted by 89StangGTConvertible
This is truly the BEST forum out there, hands down, period!!!
Now we DEFINITELY know they you haven't been here long enough...
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Old 07-28-2011, 02:12 PM
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Been here long enough to know it's true!
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Old 07-29-2011, 03:33 PM
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Ok, I replaced the TFI module myself today, in the 103 degree heat (hold the applause, please). It took me 20 minutes - piece of cake, thanks to all of your instructions. Car is running good. Question: When the TFI went out on me last time, I brought it to a garage, and they installed a new (re-manufactured) Ford distributor and TFI. When I took the TFI off, it was held on with Phillips screws... hmmm... so I didn't need the special tool I bought, just a Philips head screwdriver... do you think a newly re-manufactured dizzy would come with a TFI held on with phillips head screws??? Thinking this garage may have ordered a dizzy, and just threw my old, problematic TFI back on... thoughts?
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Old 07-31-2011, 12:35 PM
  #9  
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The failure rate of the modules over the years has led parts companies to start using regular screws instead of safety torx bits. Quality of life thing, I wouldn't read too much into it.
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