FivePointOhh

here is a write up from start to finish of replace valve springs. do's and dont's!

here is what i started with, old springs, dirty valves.



there is a difference between the new springs, old springs,and itook pics of both. there is also a difference between intake(pic 1)and exhaust(pic 2)
.


start by taking a socket slight larger than the valve lock and smack it with a hammer real good so you can feel the spring recoil. this loosens its grip on the lock which i found was a bitch to get off without doing this.


next compress the spring, this is what it should look like when done properly.


next tap off the valve lock ring to release the valve locks which looks like two half moons.


after releasing the valve locks, take them off, uncoil the spring and your done with that one. repeat untill you have all of one side done(intake side only or exhaust sideonly.)


next is the valve laping which is really easy. here are a couple pics of how to do this.

spin the valve with the lap on it to grind down to a nice even finish. there should be a perfect grey ring when your done meaning it will be seated evenly all the way around shown below.



do not lose or break these plastic rings. or you'll regret it. i almost lost one for about 10 minutes


now all you have to do is do in reverse order to put new springs on. compress spring with retainer at the same time. place over valve, and seat the valve locks in place and uncoil the spring and your done!


all seated and clean!


rockers come pretty close to the new springs because they are bigger.



and here is my head all painted nice with painted stock valve covers. looks pretty snazzy.

nmerrill

Very nice write up!

tmajikman

Excellent write up. Now you need a contributor sign under your name.

gearbanger

you need to take of the heads to swap springs?

PRO50SC

Not to bad, but where's the part where you replaced the valve seals?

mjr46

no you don't have to remove heads to take off springs..you can pump the cylinder full of compressed shop air to hold the valves up and change springs that way too....I've done it both ways before........If I were you fivepointohh..I'd grind a little clearence on the rockers to make double sure they don't contact one another....as that's what ford racing reccommends

cleanfitty

Nice...

Speaking of valve lap, http://videos.streetfire.net/video/d...bf00cef825.htm there is a part in here that shows it real well.

FivePointOhh

i asked ford about this. they instructed me how to check the seals. they checked out ok and he said as long as you do your swap and lapping without actualy removing the valves(which i did not remove the valve) you will not damage the seal thus not needing to replace it. i planned on doing this originally but im trying to save where i can since i dont have alot of money. he said it'll work, so i hope it does. that and im going to try and make those rockers work for now until i get my RHS heads and go to stud mount. i dont want to get pedistal mount rockers then have to buy new rockers again. i hate buying stuff twice!

Texas5.0

Looks easy enough. Nice write up.

AdderMk2

new valve seals would only have cost you $20