Put Kenne Bell on today and not totally happy.
#12
You really should at least get it on a dyno with a wide band and make sure your A/Ratio is safe at WOT. I am assuming you are running a stock short block, so that means cast pistons, your margin for error is not very large with those. I rented a local dyno for an hour to just check my A/F and it was only $80, money well spent IMO. It was a good thing too as I was 13.5 under WOT. I dialed in more fuel and got it to a safe 11.5-12.0, plus I picked up a little power.
#13
JD.... wanna see something scary???
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g3...rMk2/IMG-1.jpg
I drove my car like that for a long time... when we first got it on the rollers the dyno tech almost **** his pants...
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g3...rMk2/IMG-1.jpg
I drove my car like that for a long time... when we first got it on the rollers the dyno tech almost **** his pants...
#14
You really should at least get it on a dyno with a wide band and make sure your A/Ratio is safe at WOT. I am assuming you are running a stock short block, so that means cast pistons, your margin for error is not very large with those. I rented a local dyno for an hour to just check my A/F and it was only $80, money well spent IMO. It was a good thing too as I was 13.5 under WOT. I dialed in more fuel and got it to a safe 11.5-12.0, plus I picked up a little power.
adding fuel probably won't fix the problem, the car is wanting to run rich at idle. (it may keep it from blowing up but, I am not going to get in it any more)
Last edited by TrimDrip; 04-06-2009 at 11:02 AM.
#15
do you think teeing the fmu off the fpr instead of running the fmu off the vacuum tree above the steering column would help? My friends was hooked up that way but, he has a Paxton and I feel the fmu should have intake vacuum.
Last edited by TrimDrip; 04-06-2009 at 11:37 AM.
#16
JD.... wanna see something scary???
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g3...rMk2/IMG-1.jpg
I drove my car like that for a long time... when we first got it on the rollers the dyno tech almost **** his pants...
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g3...rMk2/IMG-1.jpg
I drove my car like that for a long time... when we first got it on the rollers the dyno tech almost **** his pants...
#17
JD.... wanna see something scary???
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g3...rMk2/IMG-1.jpg
I drove my car like that for a long time... when we first got it on the rollers the dyno tech almost **** his pants...
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g3...rMk2/IMG-1.jpg
I drove my car like that for a long time... when we first got it on the rollers the dyno tech almost **** his pants...
#18
you have a good pont, I am considering borrowing the money and doing it right. This will be done at the very least. thanks
adding fuel probably won't fix the problem, the car is wanting to run rich at idle. (it may keep it from blowing up but, I am not going to get in it any more)
adding fuel probably won't fix the problem, the car is wanting to run rich at idle. (it may keep it from blowing up but, I am not going to get in it any more)
#19
good point, I ordered a fp gauge to get an idea what it is doing. I also didn't finish adding the ignition, coil and coil wire. Probably should have done that since I spent 85 dollars on the MSD wires. Silly but, I ran out of time. I have a feeling that the fmu teeing off with the fpr may help something. If I am going to pull the blower off to add a fpr, I am going to go ahead and add injectors. That one bolt is a pain to get out and I am lazy.lol
#20
I didn't read the entire thread. Compression ratio has alot to do with detonation. With that in mind, might want to get some hot gas and throw in the tank. It should take care of the detonation.