one wheel burnout
#12
Yes, it's more expensive, but in the end you get what you pay for. The Helical gear design is head and shoulders above that of the disc clutch design. Both in terms of performance and maintenance of the product's life time. Why continue to rebuild the T-lok again and again when you can get the (more expensive) Truetrac and not have to worry about rebuilds?
#13
Yes get the C kit. If rebuilding just the trac-lok you can probably get it all done in less than 1 hour assuming you have the kit and fluid. Keep your shims in the right order if you take out the trac lok.
You might be able to do it with the carrier in but its much easier to take it out and do it.
I got the S spring back in by using a pair of 9" needle nose vise grips, 11" needle nose pliers, and a hammer.
Hold one side of the S spring with the vise grips and use the 11" pair of need nose pliers to reach through the carrier and squeeze the other side while pulling the s spring into place. Then tap the spring with a hammer and it will slide right in. This was the easiest way for me since these were the tools I had on hand at the time.
The actual trac-lok rebuild only took about 15 mins. It was the draining the fluid and refilling that took the most time.
You might be able to do it with the carrier in but its much easier to take it out and do it.
I got the S spring back in by using a pair of 9" needle nose vise grips, 11" needle nose pliers, and a hammer.
Hold one side of the S spring with the vise grips and use the 11" pair of need nose pliers to reach through the carrier and squeeze the other side while pulling the s spring into place. Then tap the spring with a hammer and it will slide right in. This was the easiest way for me since these were the tools I had on hand at the time.
The actual trac-lok rebuild only took about 15 mins. It was the draining the fluid and refilling that took the most time.
#14
Shoulda been like 1 hr technically lol! Did you let your clutches soak in some modifier before or did you install them dry?
Crysalis 01: yeah you get what you pay for but proper building can yeild posi like results and last for couple of years torturing it.
Pay little money now maybe replace in 2-3 years. thats a winner in my book! you can buy a spider gear upgrade along with the rebuild kit.
If i were not wanting to rebuild i`d just get a mini-spool! way cheaper, dont wear out, easy to install, hell on tires lol.
Crysalis 01: yeah you get what you pay for but proper building can yeild posi like results and last for couple of years torturing it.
Pay little money now maybe replace in 2-3 years. thats a winner in my book! you can buy a spider gear upgrade along with the rebuild kit.
If i were not wanting to rebuild i`d just get a mini-spool! way cheaper, dont wear out, easy to install, hell on tires lol.
#15
Considering my stock diff went 140k+ without needing a rebuild, and the rebuild kit is about $100... lets see...
That means that if I put a truetrac in my car, it would have paid itself off in non-rebuild costs in about another 840k miles.
I'll stick to my clutch packs, than you very much.
That means that if I put a truetrac in my car, it would have paid itself off in non-rebuild costs in about another 840k miles.
I'll stick to my clutch packs, than you very much.
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