TrimDrip

You won't use a whole tank every time you use it. I bought a snow meth kit when I was having trouble with my kb. I went through half of the small tank that comes with the kit in 12 dyno passes. And two of the passes, I had the solenoid hooked up wrong so it was syphoning the meth out. (it was one in the morning when I got done and my dyno time was at 8 the next morning) Sad to say that was all that was run out of it before my hydrocarbon test come in and found it was a head gasket.

So if you do decide to get a meth kit, hollar at me. I will cut you a deal on it for less than half what I got in it. (They just don't re-sale)

One warning about it, I don't know about the winshield fluid or the stuff snow sells but, you can ask anyone that runs alcohol as a race fuel and they will tell you that the stuff corrodes. I have seen people go through fuel filter after fuel filter from having a dirty tank. And that stuff will screw a carb up if not maintained correctly. With the meth kit, it is a bit different that running it through a carb but, I would still think it would be something to keep an eye on at least.

302army187

sure, send me pictures of what you got.

RPennington187@yahoo.com

what are you thinking it would corrode? Don't think it would have problems with anything other then the metal of the adapter might try and rust, since I don't have a PCV system to oil everything up.

TrimDrip

Well, with my kit the only thing I could think it would be is the solenoid. Thing is the tubing for the stuff is pretty good sized, as is the inlet and outlet for the soleniod. I doubt it would be enough to clog one up but, it could stick I guess. A carb would be a different story.

I know I spent right at 550 on all the stuff. I got the original kit from Michael Plummer that sells for Snow.

It comes with the small tank, the 220psi pump, 10 feet of tubing, a couple of warning lights and a float which I never tapped the tank to use since I had planned on using the large trunk mount tank I got from Summitt, and the maf controller box which runs off a maf signal or boost reference. Which ever one you decide to use.

Extras I bought were the large tank (which is still in the box), the adapter that mounts the nozzle in the air tube, the solenoid so it wouldn't syphon the meth, and an extra ten feet of tubing which I did not use since I really didn't need it all.

The only nozzle I have is the 375hp-500hp shot (i let a ricer buddy have the other smaller nozzles), which is the one I was using. Using a 50/50 mix of water and meth, I was able to run a total of 26 degrees of timing versus the total of 19 without. It did help cooling it some but, these type blowers have a large rotating mass which makes them tough to cool. If you wanted to run more nozzles, I guess you could or if you could mount the nozzle after the blower, just the one would be a big help.

I will take pictures Monday. The stuff is still on the car but, is coming off since the motor is on the stand and going in this week. I bought all this stuff from hearing about the problems with cooling and having problems myself when the whole time the cause of the detonation in the car was from the stupid bearing in the ac compressor locking up. Too bad it was to late. I finally noticed after putting a high volume water pump on the car that when I hit the throttle a grade eight bolt that held the supercharger pulley was beding sideways. The car would barley stay running at idle. I thought tune. When ac compressor locked up, we cut the car off and watched the belt melt right off the pulley on the ac compressor. Waited a minute or two amazed at what I saw and figuring out the problem, then shot housing around the bearing with a temp gun to see it was still at 300 degrees.

I had the car tuned with a blowed head gasket anyways because I still hadn't checked it. After the hydrocarbon test, I let the car sit for a while. After a while, I sold the supercharger and let the car sit until I wasn't pissed anymore. When I sold the blower I about changed my mind and backed out on the guy since all I had to do was buy gaskets and do work but, I kept my word and let it go.

302army187

well kit sounds good man. Hopefully I can run it to the back of the car.

I'm going to be taking out my rear seats when I put in the roll bar, so maybe I could mount it back there..... if the tech ******** at my track don't throw a bitch fit.


I know it won't cool much....... but a little is all I should need to keep it from melting the pistons down.

The a/c compressor thing sounds nuts. You wouldn't think something like that would be so easy to miss. Glad my emissions and a/c **** is gone!

TrimDrip

You can run it to the back of the car but, a longer than ten foot hose (a union would work too) would be helpful for getting the solenoid in a better place. Right now it is mounted to the bottom of the firewall. I would have rather had it up higher, like on the inner fender Instead I just got another 10 foot hose because it was all that was in stock at the time and I had to have it by the next week for the re-tune. I think it may of even came with the large tank I ordered. The drain holes in the trunk make it easy to route the lines though. I used a gazillion tie straps on mine and pretty much run it with the fuel lines up to the front of the car.

Regardless of what the directions say, you want the solenoid as close to the nozzle as possible and not between the tank and pump.

The ac thing is crazy because I have never seen one go out like that. Usually it is the clutches giving the problems. All I can think of is in sometime the compressor was off the car, it was dropped by someone and I wan't told about it. No way would it just go bad by taking it off and putting it back on.