well as some may know, i recently added a 10' kicker with a 300 watt kicker amp to the trunk


well theres only one wire runing to the stereo, to tell the amp to turn on....but twice now i have blown a fuse
in the engine bay.....the radio wont turn on but somehow the clock still comes on

what is goin on??? why am i blowing fuses left and right?

 

how did you run only one wire? If you are using the stock power wires then you have found your problem. those wires are not meant to power an aftermarket amp, they pull too much current.

How do you have it wires as far as series/parallel/bridged?

 

i wasnt the one that installed it....but from wut i understand, its conected to the rear speakers and
the wire to the head is only to tell the amp to turn on or off



is this why i keep blowin the fuse?

 

well i took it in, and they said it was tuned poorly, and was drawing too much power/ gettin too hot


so they put a new fuse in and it works perfectly.....but now my radio is out!


f'in basterds at circuit city....i am NEVER goin back there no matter how free the instalation is!

 

sorry but that's why the installation was free......Those guys are a joke and it's rare to find someone who actually knows what there talking about.

An amp should not be tuned wrong to draw to much power. There is no adjustment for how much power the amp will use. There are gain adjustments but that's for loudness etc..

If it was any kind of decent installation they wouldnt have connected it to the rear speakers. It should be connected to and RCA pre-amp output on the back of your head unit in order to get the right signals and frequency .

 

it is conected to the rear speakers......


but i just blew the fuse for the THIRD TIME IN FOUR DAYS!!!!!



im tellin them to take it all out and saying F it

maybe ill buy tires with the money

 

if they put it in, they will fix it.

 

I wouldn't have them take the whole thing out. I would go somewhere else, like a local audio shop and have them take a look at it. Apparently, something is connected wrong. You should never blow an a fuse on your amp. I wouldnt keep running it like this though because it may lead to some serious electrical issues one day. What gauge wiring are they running from the battery to your amp? How many watts is your amp ?

 

if you do go to another shop, tell them your story and that you are looking for a good store to start shopping at. If they think you are going to return to buy something later they will probably take a look and make recommendations for free. If they think you are using them for free info to go back to CC with they may charge you.

What size pwr wire are you running to what kind of amp with what size fuse?

 

Sounds like you have a dead short somewhere or the fuse installed was too small. The only thing that is going to blow the fuse is if the wire that is powering the amp (i am guessing either an 8 gauge wire or 4 gauge wire) is pulling too much power. This is either caused by a large amp that should say have a 60amp fuse, but instead a 40 amp fuse was installed. This would cause everything under perfect operation to blow the 40amp fuse because too much power went across it. Be careful though, the solution is not therefore to go install the biggest fuse you can find. Fuse's are in place in case of dead shorts. A dead short is if the wire that is running from under the hood of your car to the amp itself were to ever make contact with a ground on the car. In other words, if the insulation surrounding the wire that runs to the amp were to get cut against a piece of metal on the run to the back and the copper wire made contact with metal on the car, it grounds out and immediately pulls power from the battery. This could cause your car to catch on fire, so a fuse should always be installed to blow, therefore stopping the dead short from causing a fire.

In terms of correct installation, you have a large gauge wire supplying power to the amp from the battery. You should have another large gauge wire that goes from the amp to a ground on the car. The small wire that runs from the amp to the deck is the remote, and basically lets the amp know that the head unit is on and therefore the amp should be on. In terms of the wires going from the rear speakers to the amp....that is just circuit city people being lazy. They should have run RCA inputs from the head unit to the amplifier. By running off the rear speakers they are using the high input, whereas the RCA's are the low input. The RCA's will give you a much better signal quality. However, if you have a stock head unit, or head unit with no RCA outputs, then the circuit city employees hooked the amp up the only way they could. Then of course you should have wires running from the amp to the sub.