Subwoofer/Amp help needed
ORIGINAL: P Zero
Overdriving is good since most people blow their speakers due to lack of power rather than too much. But overdriving a 200w sub with a 500w amp is totally pointless, unless he is going to be using the 8ohm driver.
Also, this is where THD% comes into play. THD% is how much of the signal will get distorted. THD stands for total harmonic distortion. And even with the sh!ttiest amp it will be no more than 1%, and that would litterally be the WORST amp you can buy. The reason highend amps cost so much is not because they produce a cleaner sound (usually), its because theyre 1 ohm stable and some are even .5 ohm stable. For bridging purposes.
-P.
PS: If youre going to use that 8ohm driver then get the 500 watter. If youre going to be using a 4 ohm driver with a 200w RMS input, 200w RMS output amp shoud suit your needs just fine.
Overdriving is good since most people blow their speakers due to lack of power rather than too much. But overdriving a 200w sub with a 500w amp is totally pointless, unless he is going to be using the 8ohm driver.
Also, this is where THD% comes into play. THD% is how much of the signal will get distorted. THD stands for total harmonic distortion. And even with the sh!ttiest amp it will be no more than 1%, and that would litterally be the WORST amp you can buy. The reason highend amps cost so much is not because they produce a cleaner sound (usually), its because theyre 1 ohm stable and some are even .5 ohm stable. For bridging purposes.
-P.
PS: If youre going to use that 8ohm driver then get the 500 watter. If youre going to be using a 4 ohm driver with a 200w RMS input, 200w RMS output amp shoud suit your needs just fine.
Couple thoughts on lowering cars (been doing that for alot longer than stereos). The stiffer thesuspension, the worse the handling (for cars on the street, course racing is a little different).Without suspension travel, the car cannot absorb the shocks in road (as you have no doubt felt) A great trick to lowering car without messing up the spring rate, is remove thespring pads on top/bottom of springs. That way you lower the car an additional 3/8" to 1" (depending on several variables)so the ride is still good over bumpsand doesn't beat up the kidnies, kidnees, kidny's (how do you spell kidneys?) If you lower the car too far, you ride on the bump stops and you get bad handling AND bad ride. That is what happened to me when the springs came out of position. I was riding on the axle! My '85 GT handled FANTASTIC on very smooth roads, but when I hit a bump, the rear would want to slide out b/c the suspension could not absorb the bump and rear would get light.
As far as looks, you cannotlower a car too far IMO.
The Jazzer on dumping your car to the weeds
As far as looks, you cannotlower a car too far IMO.
The Jazzer on dumping your car to the weeds
ORIGINAL: IA_Chiefs_fan
If I want to run both 10s with a mono amp how would I hook up the subs and how many watts should the amp be? Also, nothing other than more watts is needed for an 8ohm sub? Is an 8 ohm sub better or worse than a 4 ohm sub? Thanks for the help guys!
ORIGINAL: P Zero
Overdriving is good since most people blow their speakers due to lack of power rather than too much. But overdriving a 200w sub with a 500w amp is totally pointless, unless he is going to be using the 8ohm driver.
Also, this is where THD% comes into play. THD% is how much of the signal will get distorted. THD stands for total harmonic distortion. And even with the sh!ttiest amp it will be no more than 1%, and that would litterally be the WORST amp you can buy. The reason highend amps cost so much is not because they produce a cleaner sound (usually), its because theyre 1 ohm stable and some are even .5 ohm stable. For bridging purposes.
-P.
PS: If youre going to use that 8ohm driver then get the 500 watter. If youre going to be using a 4 ohm driver with a 200w RMS input, 200w RMS output amp shoud suit your needs just fine.
Overdriving is good since most people blow their speakers due to lack of power rather than too much. But overdriving a 200w sub with a 500w amp is totally pointless, unless he is going to be using the 8ohm driver.
Also, this is where THD% comes into play. THD% is how much of the signal will get distorted. THD stands for total harmonic distortion. And even with the sh!ttiest amp it will be no more than 1%, and that would litterally be the WORST amp you can buy. The reason highend amps cost so much is not because they produce a cleaner sound (usually), its because theyre 1 ohm stable and some are even .5 ohm stable. For bridging purposes.
-P.
PS: If youre going to use that 8ohm driver then get the 500 watter. If youre going to be using a 4 ohm driver with a 200w RMS input, 200w RMS output amp shoud suit your needs just fine.
The difference in ohm's is realted to the resistance of the voice coil and has nothing to do with better or worse. The two subs would each require an amp to suit thier individual needs. If you mix hte two is will sound like Michael Moore in a farting contest with Peter from the Family Guy.
DO NOT RUN BOTH SUBS!!!!!!!
ORIGINAL: PReal
I CANNOT STRESS ENOUGH THAT YOU SHOULD NOT RUN BOTH SUBS AT THE SAME TIME!!!!!!!!!!
The difference in ohm's is realted to the resistance of the voice coil and has nothing to do with better or worse. The two subs would each require an amp to suit thier individual needs. If you mix hte two is will sound like Michael Moore in a farting contest with Peter from the Family Guy.
DO NOT RUN BOTH SUBS!!!!!!!
ORIGINAL: IA_Chiefs_fan
If I want to run both 10s with a mono amp how would I hook up the subs and how many watts should the amp be? Also, nothing other than more watts is needed for an 8ohm sub? Is an 8 ohm sub better or worse than a 4 ohm sub? Thanks for the help guys!
ORIGINAL: P Zero
Overdriving is good since most people blow their speakers due to lack of power rather than too much. But overdriving a 200w sub with a 500w amp is totally pointless, unless he is going to be using the 8ohm driver.
Also, this is where THD% comes into play. THD% is how much of the signal will get distorted. THD stands for total harmonic distortion. And even with the sh!ttiest amp it will be no more than 1%, and that would litterally be the WORST amp you can buy. The reason highend amps cost so much is not because they produce a cleaner sound (usually), its because theyre 1 ohm stable and some are even .5 ohm stable. For bridging purposes.
-P.
PS: If youre going to use that 8ohm driver then get the 500 watter. If youre going to be using a 4 ohm driver with a 200w RMS input, 200w RMS output amp shoud suit your needs just fine.
Overdriving is good since most people blow their speakers due to lack of power rather than too much. But overdriving a 200w sub with a 500w amp is totally pointless, unless he is going to be using the 8ohm driver.
Also, this is where THD% comes into play. THD% is how much of the signal will get distorted. THD stands for total harmonic distortion. And even with the sh!ttiest amp it will be no more than 1%, and that would litterally be the WORST amp you can buy. The reason highend amps cost so much is not because they produce a cleaner sound (usually), its because theyre 1 ohm stable and some are even .5 ohm stable. For bridging purposes.
-P.
PS: If youre going to use that 8ohm driver then get the 500 watter. If youre going to be using a 4 ohm driver with a 200w RMS input, 200w RMS output amp shoud suit your needs just fine.
The difference in ohm's is realted to the resistance of the voice coil and has nothing to do with better or worse. The two subs would each require an amp to suit thier individual needs. If you mix hte two is will sound like Michael Moore in a farting contest with Peter from the Family Guy.
DO NOT RUN BOTH SUBS!!!!!!!
Ok, thank goodness.
Sorry about the yelling, but I have seen some installs with 3 different amps and 3 different subs (sizes and specs) in the same car playing at the same time. I was trying to make sure you wouldn't fall trap to themore subs the bettermentality.
Sorry about the yelling, but I have seen some installs with 3 different amps and 3 different subs (sizes and specs) in the same car playing at the same time. I was trying to make sure you wouldn't fall trap to themore subs the bettermentality.
I still have the following questions.
If I want to run both 10s with a mono amp how would I hook up the subs and how many watts should the amp be?
Also, nothing other than more watts is needed for an 8ohm sub?
Is an 8 ohm sub better or worse than a 4 ohm sub?
Thanks for the help guys!
If I want to run both 10s with a mono amp how would I hook up the subs and how many watts should the amp be?
Also, nothing other than more watts is needed for an 8ohm sub?
Is an 8 ohm sub better or worse than a 4 ohm sub?
Thanks for the help guys!
There is no better or worse between 4 and 8 ohm subs. Each has thier benefits when it comes to installtion flexibility.
Each one of your 10's is a 4 ohm svc sub rated at 200 watts rms. When wired in parrallel that gives you a total of 2 ohms resistance and 400 watts rms.
There are a variety of amps that would work, could you please give me your budget.
Each one of your 10's is a 4 ohm svc sub rated at 200 watts rms. When wired in parrallel that gives you a total of 2 ohms resistance and 400 watts rms.
There are a variety of amps that would work, could you please give me your budget.
ORIGINAL: PReal
There is no better or worse between 4 and 8 ohm subs. Each has thier benefits when it comes to installtion flexibility.
Each one of your 10's is a 4 ohm svc sub rated at 200 watts rms. When wired in parrallel that gives you a total of 2 ohms resistance and 400 watts rms.
There are a variety of amps that would work, could you please give me your budget.
There is no better or worse between 4 and 8 ohm subs. Each has thier benefits when it comes to installtion flexibility.
Each one of your 10's is a 4 ohm svc sub rated at 200 watts rms. When wired in parrallel that gives you a total of 2 ohms resistance and 400 watts rms.
There are a variety of amps that would work, could you please give me your budget.
Really cheap http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/2840
Better http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/4352
Even Better http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=3963
A little over budget but nice http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=4619
Better http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/4352
Even Better http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=3963
A little over budget but nice http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=4619
ORIGINAL: PReal
Really cheap http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/2840
Better http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/4352
Even Better http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=3963
A little over budget but nice http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=4619
Really cheap http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/2840
Better http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/4352
Even Better http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=3963
A little over budget but nice http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=4619


