I have a 12" Rockford sub that is 8 ohms. Here it is http://www1.epinions.com/pr-Rockford...ay_~full_specs
I don't know if I need to do anything different to hook it up since it is 8 ohms. Any help???

Also, in another vehicle I have two of these http://www1.epinions.com/pr-Rockford...ay_~full_specs
What Rockford Amp would be best to use for these? When selecting an amp do I match RMS watts or peak power or what?

 

RMS is the consistant output of amp, so speaker should match this rating.Keep in mind that the ability of a quality speaker to handle power is going to be a lot higher than rating in RMS. If the amp is creating a clean signal you can really push the RMS rating and be fine.

As far as purchasing amps, I have said it before (many times) and will say it again. Buy as much power as you can afford. Purchase an amplifier thatcanover-power the subs and adjust gains to compensate. A bigger amp will reproduce a "cleaner" signal when it is not running on it's max output. If you want to run the 12" you mentioned, buy a 500 watt amp. If you decide to expand the system (add more subs or go with heavier ones) your amp will have some headroom to work with.

Jaz

 

Amp: 500 watts RMS???

 

The easy way is to match the sub rms with the amp rms.

make sure you don't run both of those subs at the same time.

 

Yes. When a particularly low and powerful bass note comes along and the amp is asked to reproduce it, you will have plenty of headroom to do so. I understand, this is expensive to do this way, but I don't compromise on sound.
Besides, the difference between a 200 watt amp and 500 is not much.

jazzer

 

Along with that added room is the increased stupid person factor.

Make sure to set your gains conservativly and do not overdrive the sub. Headroom is beautiful. I am running 300 watts to each one of my front components, but I set my gains using a multimeter.

 

....he he he. That is good, but not quite worthy of a LOL, sorry

 

Overdriving is good since most people blow their speakers due to lack of power rather than too much. But overdriving a 200w sub with a 500w amp is totally pointless, unless he is going to be using the 8ohm driver.
Also, this is where THD% comes into play. THD% is how much of the signal will get distorted. THD stands for total harmonic distortion. And even with the sh!ttiest amp it will be no more than 1%, and that would litterally be the WORST amp you can buy. The reason highend amps cost so much is not because they produce a cleaner sound (usually), its because theyre 1 ohm stable and some are even .5 ohm stable. For bridging purposes.
-P.
PS: If youre going to use that 8ohm driver then get the 500 watter. If youre going to be using a 4 ohm driver with a 200w RMS input, 200w RMS output amp shoud suit your needs just fine.

 

P. I was just checkin' out your sig, You lowered your car 3"???? WOW! I guess PZero is short for Zero suspension travel.

I had my '85 GT dumped to the weeds (too far) many, many, many years ago and was a very rough ride. I ended up having to design and make new shock mounts in the rear 'cuz the shock would out-travel the springs. One time, the reason I had to make the new mounts, the springs actually FELL OUT OF POSITION. They were both rubbing on the inside of the rims. I noticed after I felt the car was riding a little rougher than usual.

Kids..........what Crazythings they do

Jazzer

 

I like it that low. Too bad MI is pothole central. I did it for the handling. I bought the motorsport springs years ago, and altered them. And yeah its like zero suspension travel, even when you push down on the car, it doesnt move, at all. But then again I can take 90* corners at 60.
Oh and from the post yesterday about my 137 dB. That was at 40Hz . Thats what my system is tuned to. And thats more than enough to cause permanent hearing damage. I also run horn tweets (motorola) which could EASILY surpass the 137 mark. But theyre straight up ear-piercing.
-P.