No prob on the highjack, I'm actually learning quite a bit by watching you guys banter back and forth.

So aside from the debated plate speakers (I don't know enough about car audio to be testing new stuff and reporting back whether you're right or not), are the CDT's the final recommendation for the front speaker upgrade? I've seen some 6x8 components like these: http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=1219that look like they'd drop right in, but if they are that far inferior then I'll pass. Are round speakers better than oval? Reason I ask is because I thought more surface area was better, like it's better to have two 10s than one 12?

Next question is about the Eclipse recommendation. I looked at that unit but know nothing about it except the preamps look good at 5v. Am I giving up a ton of features between that and the AVICs for the higher preamp voltage? Or does the Eclipse have a bunch of cool features I don't know about?

Thanks guys for the patience and help.

 

Thats subject to ALOT of different things.
Box size
air space
vehicle
what your going for.
etc.

Just like Sound / SoundQuality

Mostly opinions.

 

In your situation, I wouldn't mess around with the OEM speakers. They're great speakers, but if you set them up incorrectly (poor crossover points, etc), you're not going to be pleased with them. However, I've dropped a couple of sets in different friends' vehicles (mostly with stock stereos all the way around) and the OEM components were surprisingly clear and sounded great. I really have no explanation why--they just are. I wasn't overly impressed with them on my stock radio in my 01 Expedition, but they're amazing now that I'm giving each plate 100W from a nice amp. It's kind of weird, really..

I'm not a big fan of oval speakers in general. They're more geared toward people who don't intend to run subs, IMO. I think you would be best served to go with a solid pair of 5.25"/6.5" round components with a nice 1" silk dome tweet.

-Jordan

 

So it sounds to me like after I get a good set of components in the doors and add one of those head units then I should be set right? Or is there anything else I'm forgetting?

 

I think you'd get the best results by going that route.

I don't think you'd need anything else..for now.

-Jordan

 

If you are adding a true component set you really must have an amp to power them. If you try to use a headunit to power your components (besides the plates), the crossover will eat a ton of power and you will get little volume without distortion.

Here is the thing with oval speakers...

They have more surface area which is good for making bass.
,
They are also oval. The radius changes as you make your way around the oval and as it changes, so does the rigidity of the woofer. The same material at a longer lengh will bend more. (Think of how much more force you can appply with a breaker bar then a .25 inch ratchet) As the speaker cone moves to produce sound, if the cone is not prefectly rigid it will deflect. As it deflects it changes the circular nature of a sound wave and causing dips and peaks in the wave becuause of the non-uniform cone.

Basically, oval speakers will make more bass, but the mids and highs will not be as clear.

 

Good points, PR. Oval speakers make me want to vomit, personally. If you can get a good budget set of components and are willing to buy a used amp, you could probably find an older model (I'm thinking along the lines of an older Zed amp, or something similar) and get out of here for a few hundred bucks. If you shop wisely, you should be fine..

You definitely need an amp for your front stage, though. Otherwise, you might as well say screw it and buy something like the OEM speakers I linked. Good speakers + crap amplification (I.E. HU/OEM stereo amplification) = blown speakers. Just my 1 1/2 cents.

-Jordan

 

Actually, didn't you say you already had a 4ch amp for interior speakers? If so, then you're set. Go buy a set of components and run those bad boys active! Ok, I had to make the suggestion since I almost refuse to use passive xovers (just a matter of preference, really), but if you can find a component set with a biampable crossover, you could separate your mids and tweets on the 4ch amp. You could always bridge the 4ch amp into 2ch for a set of components as well, though. It's all a matter of preference.

Have you looked at all at Alpine Type-X components? Check out model SPX-177R's. I've had my set for quite a while now and I absolutely love them. If you can find a cheap set, it might be worth real consideration. All of the other sets you've been looking at are nice also, though (although I haven't personally used any of the ones mentioned).

-Jordan

 

Will the MTX 500 watt 4 way amp I have be enough to power the new components and the 8" subs in the doors? That's what I am using to run them now.

 

2ch for the components and 2ch for the subs--sure.

That kind of kills the option to biamp the components though. No worries.

-Jordan