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Old Jan 29, 2011 | 01:59 AM
  #11  
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Old Jan 29, 2011 | 02:01 AM
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So basically rip up that Red 10 put the tap in its place and run it from the hood to the amp? It seems to easy. of course one of those 10s would need to be tested with multimeter to see if power was given to that location by starting up and no 12v all the time. right?
Old Jan 29, 2011 | 02:03 AM
  #13  
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Does it matter if its a 10/15/5/20/40?
Old Jan 29, 2011 | 04:54 AM
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Originally Posted by 240dbio
Does it matter if its a 10/15/5/20/40?
Thatīs the engine fuse box is it not? The easier method to me would be the SJB on the passenger kick panel. Many of the later models of our cars have no delayed accessory line going to the radio harness anymore as itīs can-bus controlled, but itīs tapped easily from here for after-market headunits and such. Should be fairly easy to run a line from the trunk along the molding to here and use the fuse tap.


Scratch that. The 2011īs it seems use micro-fuses now. There are no fuse-taps that will fit. Youīll have to tap an existing wire from inside if you want the delayed accessory line for it.

Originally Posted by from some other ford tech site I searched
according to the ford wiring diagram the grey and violet is hot at all times, powered through fuse #9 15amp fuse. It shows yellow and green coming directly out of the battery saver really so this would be the timed circuit. These are micro fuses, not mini fuses, so yes the supplied taps wont work. I think its best to find a wire and not a fuse to tap into.

Last edited by wayne613; Jan 29, 2011 at 05:18 AM.
Old Jan 29, 2011 | 12:55 PM
  #15  
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Can I hook my amp remote into pin 1 of the J1 and the SLC-4 ground to PIN13 in J1?

Last edited by 240dbio; Jan 29, 2011 at 01:08 PM.
Old Jan 29, 2011 | 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 240dbio
Can I hook my amp remote into pin 1 of the J1 and the SLC-4 ground to PIN13 in J1?
Pin 1 is battery(constant 12v), Pin 2 in older harnesses is what you want I think. Which is switched (delayed accessory line). Test with meter, but likely can-bus controlled in your 2011. So itīs likely not hooked up.

Pin 13 is fine for ground for that LOC.
Old Jan 29, 2011 | 05:22 PM
  #17  
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So PIN 2 RUN/ACCESS might do the trick? I'll check with multimeter. probably do another thread (write-up) for others also.
Old Jan 29, 2011 | 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 240dbio
So PIN 2 RUN/ACCESS might do the trick? I'll check with multimeter. probably do another thread (write-up) for others also.
If itīs hooked up, yes. This is the accessory (switched) line for the harness. Likely just can-bus operated for 2011īs, so I wouldnīt count on this.

Last edited by wayne613; Jan 29, 2011 at 05:46 PM.
Old Jan 29, 2011 | 08:05 PM
  #19  
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you were right the pin doesn't hook up to anythign woot!. The search for a 12volt at turn on continues. I looked at all the open slots for fuses and they were all on. WOHOO! Still cant find the passenger fuse box. Glove box and everything is gone. Anyone have recommendation for amp remote location. My multimeter isnt small enough to fit in all the pins and I dont want to start trimming the rubber back.
Old Jan 29, 2011 | 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 240dbio
you were right the pin doesn't hook up to anythign woot!. The search for a 12volt at turn on continues. I looked at all the open slots for fuses and they were all on. WOHOO! Still cant find the passenger fuse box. Glove box and everything is gone. Anyone have recommendation for amp remote location. My multimeter isnt small enough to fit in all the pins and I dont want to start trimming the rubber back.
radio shack for an adapter man. then you can get the readings you need. Of course you still need to find what that corresponds with, wire wise.



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