OK. I think i found a PIN that will work. The J3 PIN 15 (MS CAN A) read 0 when car was off and jumped all over the place when turned turned on. then had like 10 sec delay for it to stop jumping when the car was off. gray/orange wire seems to be the right one. Does this sound like a good source to you?

 

Also any idea if they have an adapter like you showed me for j1 so I don't have to cut into another harness

 

Second one down at installer.com filtered for your 2011. You will need the mating metra/scosche kit as well.

I haven´t checked the other question yet, working on figuring out some things for my own car. Nosveratu´ing it (working on car at night) which I´m sure my neighbor´s love. Specifically my door handle inserts at this point. Replaced all of the LED´s for everything else aside from those, the button for the illumination package(serious irony there), and the compass button LED on the rear-view mirror. Damn CS doors...

I don´t think that´s right though. You should set the multi-meter for DC, to read 12v when ACC with key is done, then 0 when it is off and a door is opened. I´m unsure if the sub amps turn ons are still 12v, or can-bus controlled now, but that should verify it. I´ll look through the wiring diagrams I gave you in an early link for the 2011´s later if you´ve not gotten this sussed out.

 

set it to VDC it read pretty constant 2.5 when i set it to 20. Then took key out and slow dropped to 0. Sounds pretty solid to me.

ordering this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER
and this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

hopefully this is the right stuff. I'll solder those speakers ive already cut back together keeping the stock wiring intact.

Going on a two week vacation. Wont get parts in time...mustang will remain in pieces

 

oo wrong female parts.

 

Yeah, that´d be 2.5v, used to be 5v for factory sub turn-ons. But your after-market amp needs 12v for remote turn-on.

Check your EJB(engine junction box), can likely tap in there the easiest since the SJB uses the micro-fuses for your 2011:

 

PDB? Fuse 42 is neither constant or on when engine key is in "RUN" or whatever they call it.

 

I checked all the engine fuses. They all seem constant or they don't work.

 

Did you check the electrical manuals I gave you the link for?

You say you still can´t find the SJB in the passenger side kick panel? It´s up at the front console by where you´re feet would be as a passenger, on the right-side next to the door opening, likely have to remove the plastic moulding for decent access.

This, according to the diagram (page 24, here), check the solid blue wire coming from the SJB, fuse 41, 15amp. This is on the accessory delay relay, so this is likely what you´re after. Confirmed from the owners guide in the link below on page 228.

According to that, F47(fuse 47, 30amp) could also be used as it does not have a corresponding wire(as it´s unused). From Page 228 again, fuse 47 looks to be a standard fuse, so you could just get a tap from radio-shack to do this. But I don´t have your car to check or verify, at the very least this should be a standard mini-fuse. Just check this with a multi-meter. But you should be set with this one.

Seems the insanely small fuses are ¨maxi¨ fuses, but the others should still be mini´s. See page 225 of the owners guide here. Not sure why they´re not keeping the mini-fuses like all the others for the past like decade for FORD´s. Guess they like making **** harder for everyone.

 

finally found the passanger fuse box. I was opening up this velcro sheet, but then there was another sheet taped down ontop of it. It's a little late so I got to look into it tomorrow. I bought MINI fuse taps http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CF0Q8wIwAA#
not sure if that will work. Otherwise if Fuse47 is free I can buy an adapater from radio shack or online to tap into it?

something like this....as I've shown before? http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...0&tx=102&ty=97