Canīt quite gauge that ones size from the picture, but yes, I think 47 is a full size fuse for your car. In which case you can probably get some kind of fuse tap from just about any automotive or electronics store locally. In any case check first to verify this is indeed 12v switched.

 

Fuse 47 is that big 30 amp one thats all shiny in the picture. They make taps that big?

 

then two above that one (RED 10) is the 42 which didn't turn on when I turned on the car. I think i twas climate control and the a/c or something had to be on. I'm not sure.

 

tried 41......no power..yet the windows don't work.....little stupid if you ask me I'm not getting anything am I measuring wrong?

disregard: works fine I thought i was hitting both side of the fuse, but i guess I was hitting plastic when I tried one of them the "HOT" side.

 

OK. got that adapter it works fine. The box won't close because the tap is in its way, but at least it works. Don't really need to put the case back on anyways. No biggie!

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...:0&tx=47&ty=40

 

now that that is settled it's ok to run the remote amp and the power to the amp on top of each other right. I just have to keep the RCAs and the speaker wire separate from amps power.

 

You can edit your posts now that you have 50. Rather then making a new one each time before someone has responded..

First time doing this I take it? Running amp power from the same remote tap is just a bad idea regardless, add to this itīs likely to draw more than 15amps on itīs own depending on wattage, itīs 15amp limit is being shared with many other things in this case, and the topper of being from the SJB...

You want a separate line to either the battery directly (fused no more than a few inches away from the tap) or to another already fused source capable of dealing with the draw. Either way, that remote line should be treated like a power switch, not a source.

 

nvm ground wasn't good enough.

 

That is fine, yes.

No fuse blowing? Just flickers on, then doesnīt work? You sure the remote line is keeping 12v? Iīd remove the remote line from the amp, jump the constant 12v from the battery line temporarily to check.

The SJB is finicky as previously referenced. It doesnīt take kindly to decent draws. And itīs possible your tap isnīt secure/good as well.

 

AMP is on now. Ground wasn't good enough.

I'm not getting any signal from the SLC-4 now. I'm not sure if it's because i put the level of the speaker all the way down....or if the SLC-4 is hooked up wrong. Seems to be right to me about to mess with the levels see If i can get some music out of it.