Flush Push Start
Thread Starter
1st Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 52
From: Virginia
Flush Push Start
So I just got this a little over a week ago and got really aggravated on how long it took me to figure out the wiring. There for, i decided to do my own DIY as well as review on it.
It is a push start. It fits awesome in the stock aux power spot on the dash. There are two colors available. I got the blue because i have blue leds in the foot-well and will be getting the leds replaced to blue to match. Enjoy and let me know what you think.
I only show how to wire it and what wires to splice in. I know most of you know how to take the dash apart and what bolts and everything. If not here is some pics to show.
http://www.fordracingparts.com/downl...M-11572-GT.pdf
Blue
http://cgi.ebay.com/PUSH-BUTTON-STAR...item4aa463a802
Red
http://cgi.ebay.com/PUSH-BUTTON-STAR...item4aa3d6a131
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_kpBY15rGHM
It is a push start. It fits awesome in the stock aux power spot on the dash. There are two colors available. I got the blue because i have blue leds in the foot-well and will be getting the leds replaced to blue to match. Enjoy and let me know what you think.
I only show how to wire it and what wires to splice in. I know most of you know how to take the dash apart and what bolts and everything. If not here is some pics to show.
http://www.fordracingparts.com/downl...M-11572-GT.pdf
Blue
http://cgi.ebay.com/PUSH-BUTTON-STAR...item4aa463a802
Red
http://cgi.ebay.com/PUSH-BUTTON-STAR...item4aa3d6a131
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_kpBY15rGHM
6th Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,936
From:
can I give some constructive critisicm?
unfortunatly the T-taps connectors you used will eventually fail. They are really not good in car audio and generally associated with a hacks install. If you do not replace them, then just be aware that next year after they expand/contract with heat/temp you will probably have issues. Crimp is acceptable, solder prefered and a t-taps and twist nust are a no-no. All the exposed wire at the end of the one connection is also asking for problems and a blown fuse so if one day the button does not work first chck the connections and then check the fuse box.
Understand that I am telling you this because you have tied into some VERY critical wiring in a fairly new car. When these connections start to have problems it could lead to other issues, and if you end up bringing it into a dealership with wiring like that I can promise your warrenty will be gone...... We all start somewhere, I can remember my first install looking not much better but be aware that spending the extra time on electrical connections is worth the time in the long run.
unfortunatly the T-taps connectors you used will eventually fail. They are really not good in car audio and generally associated with a hacks install. If you do not replace them, then just be aware that next year after they expand/contract with heat/temp you will probably have issues. Crimp is acceptable, solder prefered and a t-taps and twist nust are a no-no. All the exposed wire at the end of the one connection is also asking for problems and a blown fuse so if one day the button does not work first chck the connections and then check the fuse box.
Understand that I am telling you this because you have tied into some VERY critical wiring in a fairly new car. When these connections start to have problems it could lead to other issues, and if you end up bringing it into a dealership with wiring like that I can promise your warrenty will be gone...... We all start somewhere, I can remember my first install looking not much better but be aware that spending the extra time on electrical connections is worth the time in the long run.
Thread Starter
1st Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 52
From: Virginia
can I give some constructive critisicm?
unfortunatly the T-taps connectors you used will eventually fail. They are really not good in car audio and generally associated with a hacks install. If you do not replace them, then just be aware that next year after they expand/contract with heat/temp you will probably have issues. Crimp is acceptable, solder prefered and a t-taps and twist nust are a no-no. All the exposed wire at the end of the one connection is also asking for problems and a blown fuse so if one day the button does not work first chck the connections and then check the fuse box.
Understand that I am telling you this because you have tied into some VERY critical wiring in a fairly new car. When these connections start to have problems it could lead to other issues, and if you end up bringing it into a dealership with wiring like that I can promise your warrenty will be gone...... We all start somewhere, I can remember my first install looking not much better but be aware that spending the extra time on electrical connections is worth the time in the long run.
unfortunatly the T-taps connectors you used will eventually fail. They are really not good in car audio and generally associated with a hacks install. If you do not replace them, then just be aware that next year after they expand/contract with heat/temp you will probably have issues. Crimp is acceptable, solder prefered and a t-taps and twist nust are a no-no. All the exposed wire at the end of the one connection is also asking for problems and a blown fuse so if one day the button does not work first chck the connections and then check the fuse box.
Understand that I am telling you this because you have tied into some VERY critical wiring in a fairly new car. When these connections start to have problems it could lead to other issues, and if you end up bringing it into a dealership with wiring like that I can promise your warrenty will be gone...... We all start somewhere, I can remember my first install looking not much better but be aware that spending the extra time on electrical connections is worth the time in the long run.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
