001mustang

I am planning to change 67 mustang drum/drum 1" bore master cylinder to the popular 74 maveric or 78 granada 15/16" bore master cylinder.

Master cylinder female port is 7/16x24 inverted flare.

Brake line male nut is 9/16x18 inverted flare.

Anyone know part number for the master cylinder adapter nut?

JMD

no, but here is the right way to do it if you can reproduce the brake line and make inverted flares.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220137/

This is a little harder than trying to adapt lines, but it looks a ton better.

NAPA has a few adapters in stock at most stores, but mostly all "T's", so one port will nees to be plugged.

001mustang

I would rather not do the inverted flares unless I get a better flaring tool. Nice one I saw didn't come cheap. One I have not so great.

Went to at least 6 auto part stores today and none had the 7/16-9/16 adapter.

I have four solutions:

1. Four adapters and 12" pre-made tubing. Bend to mimic OEM.

2. Two 8" adapter tubes. Two adapters in distribution block. Bend more like a Z than OEM curly cue.

3. Suck it up and buy a JMD flaring tool.

4. Reinstall the 67 drum MC with primary residual check valve removed.

BTW, I plan to disassemble MC and apply ceramic coating to exterior; requires 450F cure. I am concerned I will damage seals when removing from a working but used MC; cylinder wall may have ridges.



2. AZ had

JMD

Not meaning to sound like a smart ***, but I might,,, sorry...

You are going to ceramic coat your m/c, and then possibly put an adapter on it?

A cheap i/f tool is a PIA, but it will do the job.

Also, we used a 67 m/c on Jim's 66 with Wilwood fronts and SSBC rears, imo it works fine.

001mustang

I am leaning heavily toward a new 67 drum mc with OEM plumbing.
Only disadvantage is 1" bore vs granada/maveric 15/16" bore.
Can easily remove primary residual pressure check valve.

Plan to disassemble and ceramic coat because mc tends to rust quickly.
I have some Chromex ceramic coating left over from a header job.
I love Chromex.

I saw an i/f tool that was about $300; for pros I guess.
Have not shopped around for i/f tool so I don't know what all is out there.

JMD

You can get a "regular" i/f tool for about $40, I used one of those quite a while and it worked well enough, I have a Mastercool hydraulic tool now, it is just dreamy, but a little pricey unless a person were going to use it quite a bit.

IMO the 1" bore is not going to hurt you over the 15/16", might make the pedal a LITTLE harder, but like I say the 67 m/c we are using works perfectly.

001mustang

I googled images of modified brake lines and proportioning valves.
I'm not that smart, but smart enough to know not everyone can make nice looking hard line bends and proportioning valve installs.

I will go with original 67 mustang mc and OEM hard lines up front.

Test the braking for rear lockup.

If I need proportioning valve, I plan to install near inlet of rear flex hose. Probably weld a bracket in the rear axle well for lever style proportioning valve.
Will consider installing proportioning valve behind rear seat, convertible top well, or in trunk area.

andrewmp6

Why get it coated by the time a normal one looks bad its time to replace it.Look at abspowerbrake.com they have alum and billet master cylinders.

001mustang

I already have Chromex for coating.

My posi quiet loaded calipers have a nice looking gold "corrosion resistant" coating.

Perhaps I will get lucky and find a zinc coated mc. cardone has a rebuilt 10-1485 and a select 13-1485; not sure of coating differences. My last mc started looking bad in short order.

Would like the billet mc but it costs several times more.