67 cowl repair
Were the hell is the splash shields? I thought they would have been just behind the inside fender well.
ORIGINAL: slickman
Well, I purchased the plasitc hat because I'm not going to rip my car apart for a small water leak. The hats are just leaking, they don't need replacment. I ordered this kit and I'll et you guys know how I make out, with PICS... Plastic Hat repair
They say I need to take the fender splash shields out for installation, that does not sound too bad. Just got to pull the front wheels off then go from there.
Well, I purchased the plasitc hat because I'm not going to rip my car apart for a small water leak. The hats are just leaking, they don't need replacment. I ordered this kit and I'll et you guys know how I make out, with PICS... Plastic Hat repair
They say I need to take the fender splash shields out for installation, that does not sound too bad. Just got to pull the front wheels off then go from there.
ORIGINAL: Soaring
Yep...Plastic hats...
Need I say more?
ORIGINAL: Twister
http://mustangcountryintl.com/data/mc2003l.pdf
look at page 28....
ORIGINAL: Soaring
I have never heard anyone state that the plastic hats cured the problem. Maybe one of you guys will be the first.
I have never heard anyone state that the plastic hats cured the problem. Maybe one of you guys will be the first.
look at page 28....
Need I say more?
Look behind your front wheel. The water, mud, etc. hits that part that attaches to the fender and the inner wheel well. It's the go-between from your fender to your inner fender just behind your front wheels.
Not sure how that helps with the repair then, they say it needs to be removed in order to do the repair. But yet this area is not accessible from what I see, I don't get it.. Hope I did not spend $50 for nothing...!
ORIGINAL: Soaring
Look behind your front wheel. The water, mud, etc. hits that part that attaches to the fender and the inner wheel well. It's the go-between from your fender to your inner fender just behind your front wheels.
Look behind your front wheel. The water, mud, etc. hits that part that attaches to the fender and the inner wheel well. It's the go-between from your fender to your inner fender just behind your front wheels.
ORIGINAL: slickman
Not sure how that helps with the repair then, they say it needs to be removed in order to do the repair. But yet this area is not accessible from what I see, I don't get it.. Hope I did not spend $50 for nothing...!
Not sure how that helps with the repair then, they say it needs to be removed in order to do the repair. But yet this area is not accessible from what I see, I don't get it.. Hope I did not spend $50 for nothing...!
ORIGINAL: Soaring
Look behind your front wheel. The water, mud, etc. hits that part that attaches to the fender and the inner wheel well. It's the go-between from your fender to your inner fender just behind your front wheels.
Look behind your front wheel. The water, mud, etc. hits that part that attaches to the fender and the inner wheel well. It's the go-between from your fender to your inner fender just behind your front wheels.
I just purchased one as well as a backup. The only thing wrong is, you will still get water in the cowl via the openings for the windshield wipers.
ORIGINAL: Twister
works real well
ORIGINAL: ADRIAN1
im gonna buy the cowl vent cover. ill let you guys know how that works out...
im gonna buy the cowl vent cover. ill let you guys know how that works out...
The way this kid (yup, 15 years old) did this repair is a thought I had (not that I would do it on mine, not yet anyway) and was a good idea. Cowl repair
ORIGINAL: vanceboro
As with a lot of early mustangs, I have one side leaking badly. three types of repairs are suggested by parts houses. I don't want to do the replacement route, due to the expense. Has anyone tried fiberglass repair? Is there an somewhat easy way to remove the heater? I'm an old man and it's tough getting onder the dash. This a driver, much modified, so I don't need to remain original. Thanks guys, Vanceboro
As with a lot of early mustangs, I have one side leaking badly. three types of repairs are suggested by parts houses. I don't want to do the replacement route, due to the expense. Has anyone tried fiberglass repair? Is there an somewhat easy way to remove the heater? I'm an old man and it's tough getting onder the dash. This a driver, much modified, so I don't need to remain original. Thanks guys, Vanceboro
Here is the two ways you can repair the hats. I was looking for how it could be done without removing the cowl and fund the way today.
There are a couple of less intrusive methods that you can try:
Plastic hats---You can buy a repair kit that consists of plastic inserts (called "hats" because of their shape) that are shoved up through the air vents under the dash and glued into place over the vents using a silicon adhesive. You will first have to reach up through the vent and remove the rusted portion of the original vents that sticks up into the cowl. You should also scrape the cowl as clean as possible and treat the metal with a rust inhibitor, like Rustoleum or POR 15.
Enter the cowl through the side---You can get into the cowl without breaking the spot welds by cutting two vertical slots up the side of the cowl (remove the front fender---the cowl side is the "inner skin" that is beneath the fender) and folding the sheet metal up; reach inside to clean the cowl interior, treat the rust, and install the plastic hats. Fold the metal down and weld it shut, then reinstall the fenders.
There are a couple of less intrusive methods that you can try:
Plastic hats---You can buy a repair kit that consists of plastic inserts (called "hats" because of their shape) that are shoved up through the air vents under the dash and glued into place over the vents using a silicon adhesive. You will first have to reach up through the vent and remove the rusted portion of the original vents that sticks up into the cowl. You should also scrape the cowl as clean as possible and treat the metal with a rust inhibitor, like Rustoleum or POR 15.
Enter the cowl through the side---You can get into the cowl without breaking the spot welds by cutting two vertical slots up the side of the cowl (remove the front fender---the cowl side is the "inner skin" that is beneath the fender) and folding the sheet metal up; reach inside to clean the cowl interior, treat the rust, and install the plastic hats. Fold the metal down and weld it shut, then reinstall the fenders.


