OK, Not as bad as I thought. Drivers side gone from firewall to seat tray, passenger side gone from firewall to rear seat bench. Rear pan good. Maybe this is really bad in someones eyes, but hey, it's less then 100 per cent. Anyway, to prevent, slow down any further problems I was wondering if this approach was appropriate? Spray weld thru primer on welded areas, self etch primer. seam sealer, prime, coat with epoxy bed liner top and bottom. any advice?

 

What would happen if you dont pull the engine and tranny? Is it really neccessary to use a rotisserie? Im also concerned about tweaking the frame when we remove the floor, so are braces needed?

 

if you do the entire floor as one section pull the drivetrain.

if you do patches, one side at a time you only need to pull the carpet, seats and anything else on the floor that is in the way or will burn. You dont have to go after the spot welds either, you can section the floor pan and butweld the new panel in as long as you have good metal around it to work with.

you guys are gonna make me actually get somewhere on the 71 so I can post pics of what I am talkin about, arent you?

 

Yep, now get out in the garage and quit typing.

 

its dark out there.. and it was raining... and I am sore.. and its about bed time.. I been workin on gettin the F150 goin again. it looks like it has an engine again. Maybe tomorrow I will get it fired. (pray for me eh?)

besides i gotta helps some of the newbs so they can geets thems cars runnins agains ya knows...

 

Yeah, I'm hip to being sore. I had to replace the negative cable on my F-150 and that sucker is a real pain to get to underneath. You have to twist your body in all sort of contortions just to get the retaining bolt off the frame. Plus, at my age, just changing out the wheels on the 65 is hard for me with my Arthritis in the knees. I must look like a real comical character trying to get down on one knee. These noobs are good kids. God love them all for owning a classic Mustang.

 

Hey Soaring, and any others willing to reply...I just pulled all the carpet out of my 69 Vert Stang and had a professional body repairman quote me $700.00 to replace the pans (thats just him cutting out & welding in the new ones after I buy the pans/sheetmetal)...This guy built an off-road /rock-climber (jeep-looking) vehicle for Dale Earnhardt Jr that's appeared in a couple TV spots so far (I've seen it in person & on a Discovery Channel type program). I'm from "Race City USA" (Mooresville, NC) and was wondering, Is this a fair enough price ($700.00) to pay someone, to do the work I can't do myself?

 

Hey Thumpin,
Alot of the material I have read suggest going to the original seams, that would mean getting to the spot welds. My pans only have rust pinholes (many of them) that you cannot even see in a photo. If i do not cut the pans out to the seams am I better off trying to butt them up against each other or using a small overlap?

 

I have another question on this topic.....
where should I set the jackstands? Should I use 2 or 3 sets? Obviously rear but would i be better off putting them on both sides of the frame rails as the area I am going to patch? Should I be this concerned about the stresses of the weight?

 

I guess the "correct" way to install the floor pans is to butt weld them. When I did mine, my cutting and welding skills were not those of a professional so I used approximately 1/2" overlap. After I welded them in completely, I seam sealed both edges. Also, I think the only factory spot welds you will contend with are the ones along the rockers and along the frame rails. I used cinder blocks and shims on the rocker panels during the entire process to keep the vehicle level and to keep it from moving or flexing. I did not raise the vehicle off the ground much, just enough to keep it level, if I remember correctly.

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