ACADIST

The car I am going to weld is just a shell, no extra weight at all......no engine, trans, fenders, doors, interior, etc......

ACADIST

Well today I started cutting. I started with my air cutting wheel but quickly realized that my sawzall was much more efficient. I used the cutting wheel to start the cuts and the sawzall to to cunnect the dots, so to speak. I cut around the frame rails and came back afterward and used a chisel and sledge to seperate the spot welds. I gave the chisel romm to get between by drilling the first two welds and using the chisel to completely remove the welds and then the chisel made real easy work out of the welds I did not drill.
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...ege2006053.jpghttp://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...ege2006052.jpgAnd here is one with the new sheet metal resting in there, I am going to leave the area on the firewall because it will fix the two small areas on the firewall instead of replaciing the whole firewall.
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...ege2006051.jpgIt is easy to see why these cars rusted so much......look at the bare metal in the frame rails.

cole18cars

OK, I have most of the pan cut out, but how do you get to the top of the toe board? I think I have to remove the heater unit. How does this come off? Also will I need to drain the coolant? Any help would be very helpful . Thanks

Soaring

Shoot us a picture of your toe board to determine if it really needs replacement or not. You might get by with cutting out the cancer and butt welding in a few patches.

cole18cars

Well I would, but I pulled the right half of the passenger sid off by hand, and under the firewall insulation, there is nothing but 'RUST'

69 Convertible Stang

Hey man, your pictures look very familair...I'm nearing the point you're at now and was wondering, did you have to cut out the seat boxes (that are spot welded in)? If you cut or drill out the spot welds, can you re-use the seat boxes after the floorboards are replaced, just weld them back in?

428coupe

I took mine off carefully and reused them

72rustang

Same here. Before removing the seat riser, you might want to take some pictures and / or make some measurements between the seat riser and other fixed points on the car... jot them all down and when it is time to weld the riser back in, get all of your measurements the same before welding. I suppose it does not have to go back on there 100% exactly the same way, you just don't want the seat to be facing 10 degrees off center.

I did one side at a time FWIW... removed floor pan and riser, welded new floor pan in, welded riser back in.