THUMPIN455

Well there have been a few, and I got some pics of a Cougar in Wisconsin that is mid build. These pics give you an idea of what it takes to put the 4.6 or 5.4 in. This swap is not a backyard project, it not a beginners project. This one has been in the build stage for some time now, and the workmanship is top notch from what I can see. It isnt something you can just hack apart and slap together.

The shock towers are too close for any cammer, so the upper control arms need to be relocated to the framerail. The sping needs to have its own mount then as well, or some sort of coil over system employed. These modifications take precise measurements, and quality welding skills and equipment are mandatory. Look under the hood of your classic, then look at these and you can get an idea of the work involved.

This is not a cheap, or fast way to build a car. The metal work is only one portion of the problem, getting all the EFI and engine management systems to work properly also needs to be adressed. Exhuast is another concern where you cant just buy off the shelf stuff that will fit perfectly. Everything needs to be either made or modified to do this.

Most people who are not full time automotive technicians will have a tough time rebuilding the front susemsion, and doing something like this could end up with a cut up car that is never finished. This is a word of warning, and also a non sugar coated look at what it takes. It isnt a bad swap, it isnt futile, but it isnt for everyone.

To the people who have completed one of these swaps, you have my esteem and recognition for undertaking a monumental task and seeing it through to the end. I dont mean to disuade anyone from trying this, just giving you something to think about before you cut anything. We have enough members in the Pit of Despair club...lol...

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THUMPIN455

For reference here is a stock 67 Cougar with no outer sheetmetal so youcan see the difference between them.

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67 evil eleanor

what ecm are you planing to use? your work looks excelent.

6mustang6

thats not Thumpins car, he used those pictures for reference.

jarrettdad

What kind of front suspension are they using there Thumpin?

6mustang6

yes, that looks interesting. Something i need to do to my car to drop a 514 in it.

Brandontyler65

you don't want the 514 get this 698 CID you might as well since you are making room why not put something insane in it

THUMPIN455

Some more info on it, the builder wrote this and I simply copy pasted it. Thump.

"The '68 with the '99 Cobra is mine. I've been at it for 6+ years as a full rotisserie restomod in my garage. It was a standard coupe bought for my son as his high school graduation present in '94. He drove it through college and it became my project when the motor let go and he needed to get to grad school. It had a 302 4V, auto, air, vinal top, and was a very solid but previously hit (a few times) west Texas desert car - so I didn't ruin anything "valuable."

The front end is a Rod & Custom Motorsport coil over with 2" drop spindles and 1" sway bar. The rear is a 9" with a rebuilt 4:11 traction lok. It has a Stam Bar 7/8" rear sway bar and Traction Master traction bars for the retro look.

The engine management system is from The Detail Zone and it uses the stock PCM reprogrammed by them to add and delete functions. I fabricated the panel behind the seat to mount the PCM and junction panel for the system.

The engine's supposedly got 4K miles on it and the only mods are EGR delete and a BBK underdrive pulley kit. I should be able to squeez some more out of it with the Predator tuner. The trans is a T45 with a custom mount that I fabricated myself. The shifter's a Steeda with an old Hurst arm and handle - again for the retro look.

I would have liked to push the engine/trans back further than it is, but I'm using the heater and AC and needed the room for the hardware. Hot and sweaty is not the wife's (nor my) idea of a good time. I just bought electric windows for it too.

The body's basically stock with Lizard Skin sprayed on the interior, exterior bottom, the rear wheel wells, the fire wall, and the interior of the top. I've not used it before, so I'll let you know how it performs once the car's done. The subframes are tied (welded) and I've built some custom braces on the front to stiffen it up with the shock towers gone. Alston supplied the 4-point roll bar.

I got the electric fuel pump, fuel tank pick-up, regulator, and tubing from Ron Morris Performance. I'm also using his clutch cable conversion and rear axle tie-down plates. Nice stuff.

Someone said they like the color. Thanks - it's 2006 Mercury Mountaineer redfire. All the brightwork is powder coated satin black except for the bumpers that I got from John's Classic Cougars - they may end up black too. It's sort of being built to look like an old Trans Am car with a '69/'70 Eliminator scoop.

I'll post pictures as it progresses. The goal is to have it at the World of Wheels, Green Bay, WI in March for one show. After that, I drive the snot out of it on the street, the strip, and road race tracks with the SVT and Shelby boys..."

6mustang6

i was sorta kidding about that. My car is original and im keeping it that way. BUT if i had a beater sitting around without a motor....... then yes, i would do that.

rmodel65

i been thinking about getting a lincoln mark 8 and stripping the drivetrain for a 85-86 notch mustang it has a few differences from the cobra motor but it is 280hp mainly i think the difference is the cams and the crank isnt forged but i beileve the block is all alum like the cobras