Should i buy this nice looking rust bucket?
ORIGINAL: KOVA
heh, i should mention im in Dearborn MI, the motherland for the mustang
heh, i should mention im in Dearborn MI, the motherland for the mustang
lived there too, detroit and dearborn, we couldnt afford the same house for very long so we had to keep moving, mainly around 8 and 7 mile. then 1 house near ford road and one at the end of hines dr in dearborn
i do plan on moving back up there in the next couple of years
How much of the replacement can you honestly do yourself? There are thousands of old cars in backyards downstate, not all of them Mustangs of course. If you are going to spend that kinda coin, you should find one that doesnt need $3000 worth of sheetmetal and $5000 worth of labor to fix it. If you can do it all yourself then you can save the money you would be paying someone else to do it for you.
On the other hand, these cars dont grow on trees, they arent making them anymore, and we live in Michigan where cars rust just because they feel like it. Texas and the southwest arent exactly close to us (well closer to you, I am in the U.P) so you get what you can right? Put it on a lift, grab a screwdriver and see how bad the framerails are, you know the floor is shot, and a cowl repair is almost a guaranteed needed fix on all of them these days. If its ate up like some of the 4x4s I have up here looking liks swiss cheese under there, pass on it and find one that didnt spend its life here.
If you dont have a garage to do all the work in, then you need to get something from the south, and then not drive it untill the salt is off the road sometime next May. I am over $8000 in parts alone for my 71 Fastback and it still doesnt look like a car, and I need another $2000 in parts just to get it on the road, that doesnt include paint or interior, just needed parts. Rust does some nasty damage. The problem with my fastback is in #1 condition it is only worth around $15k, I will have more in it than that from the looks of it now, especially if I try to make it a #1, so its going to be a driver instead of something I can sell early next year. I have a 2000sqft shop to work in, otherwise I wouldnt have even attempted to repair that thing. Trying to weld outside in -10F weather isnt much fun. Not to mention what a foot or two of snow on bare metal would do to it before it all melted next spring..
I wouldnt pay that much for it unless it had a bunch of parts coming with it, had a great running and desireable engine/drivetrain, and it truthfully only needed those parts fixed and the rest was as near perfect as possible. That is me though, how bad do you want one and to what length are you willing to go to get one? no rust is better than alot of rust, but a rusty car is more fun than no car.. sucks to live here sometimes, doesnt it? I have 4 cars outside that cant be driven in winter... and one beater on its last legs.. arghhh.
On the other hand, these cars dont grow on trees, they arent making them anymore, and we live in Michigan where cars rust just because they feel like it. Texas and the southwest arent exactly close to us (well closer to you, I am in the U.P) so you get what you can right? Put it on a lift, grab a screwdriver and see how bad the framerails are, you know the floor is shot, and a cowl repair is almost a guaranteed needed fix on all of them these days. If its ate up like some of the 4x4s I have up here looking liks swiss cheese under there, pass on it and find one that didnt spend its life here.
If you dont have a garage to do all the work in, then you need to get something from the south, and then not drive it untill the salt is off the road sometime next May. I am over $8000 in parts alone for my 71 Fastback and it still doesnt look like a car, and I need another $2000 in parts just to get it on the road, that doesnt include paint or interior, just needed parts. Rust does some nasty damage. The problem with my fastback is in #1 condition it is only worth around $15k, I will have more in it than that from the looks of it now, especially if I try to make it a #1, so its going to be a driver instead of something I can sell early next year. I have a 2000sqft shop to work in, otherwise I wouldnt have even attempted to repair that thing. Trying to weld outside in -10F weather isnt much fun. Not to mention what a foot or two of snow on bare metal would do to it before it all melted next spring..
I wouldnt pay that much for it unless it had a bunch of parts coming with it, had a great running and desireable engine/drivetrain, and it truthfully only needed those parts fixed and the rest was as near perfect as possible. That is me though, how bad do you want one and to what length are you willing to go to get one? no rust is better than alot of rust, but a rusty car is more fun than no car.. sucks to live here sometimes, doesnt it? I have 4 cars outside that cant be driven in winter... and one beater on its last legs.. arghhh.
ORIGINAL: THUMPIN455
How much of the replacement can you honestly do yourself? There are thousands of old cars in backyards downstate, not all of them Mustangs of course. If you are going to spend that kinda coin, you should find one that doesnt need $3000 worth of sheetmetal and $5000 worth of labor to fix it. If you can do it all yourself then you can save the money you would be paying someone else to do it for you.
On the other hand, these cars dont grow on trees, they arent making them anymore, and we live in Michigan where cars rust just because they feel like it. Texas and the southwest arent exactly close to us (well closer to you, I am in the U.P) so you get what you can right? Put it on a lift, grab a screwdriver and see how bad the framerails are, you know the floor is shot, and a cowl repair is almost a guaranteed needed fix on all of them these days. If its ate up like some of the 4x4s I have up here looking liks swiss cheese under there, pass on it and find one that didnt spend its life here.
If you dont have a garage to do all the work in, then you need to get something from the south, and then not drive it untill the salt is off the road sometime next May. I am over $8000 in parts alone for my 71 Fastback and it still doesnt look like a car, and I need another $2000 in parts just to get it on the road, that doesnt include paint or interior, just needed parts. Rust does some nasty damage. The problem with my fastback is in #1 condition it is only worth around $15k, I will have more in it than that from the looks of it now, especially if I try to make it a #1, so its going to be a driver instead of something I can sell early next year. I have a 2000sqft shop to work in, otherwise I wouldnt have even attempted to repair that thing. Trying to weld outside in -10F weather isnt much fun. Not to mention what a foot or two of snow on bare metal would do to it before it all melted next spring..
I wouldnt pay that much for it unless it had a bunch of parts coming with it, had a great running and desireable engine/drivetrain, and it truthfully only needed those parts fixed and the rest was as near perfect as possible. That is me though, how bad do you want one and to what length are you willing to go to get one? no rust is better than alot of rust, but a rusty car is more fun than no car.. sucks to live here sometimes, doesnt it? I have 4 cars outside that cant be driven in winter... and one beater on its last legs.. arghhh.
How much of the replacement can you honestly do yourself? There are thousands of old cars in backyards downstate, not all of them Mustangs of course. If you are going to spend that kinda coin, you should find one that doesnt need $3000 worth of sheetmetal and $5000 worth of labor to fix it. If you can do it all yourself then you can save the money you would be paying someone else to do it for you.
On the other hand, these cars dont grow on trees, they arent making them anymore, and we live in Michigan where cars rust just because they feel like it. Texas and the southwest arent exactly close to us (well closer to you, I am in the U.P) so you get what you can right? Put it on a lift, grab a screwdriver and see how bad the framerails are, you know the floor is shot, and a cowl repair is almost a guaranteed needed fix on all of them these days. If its ate up like some of the 4x4s I have up here looking liks swiss cheese under there, pass on it and find one that didnt spend its life here.
If you dont have a garage to do all the work in, then you need to get something from the south, and then not drive it untill the salt is off the road sometime next May. I am over $8000 in parts alone for my 71 Fastback and it still doesnt look like a car, and I need another $2000 in parts just to get it on the road, that doesnt include paint or interior, just needed parts. Rust does some nasty damage. The problem with my fastback is in #1 condition it is only worth around $15k, I will have more in it than that from the looks of it now, especially if I try to make it a #1, so its going to be a driver instead of something I can sell early next year. I have a 2000sqft shop to work in, otherwise I wouldnt have even attempted to repair that thing. Trying to weld outside in -10F weather isnt much fun. Not to mention what a foot or two of snow on bare metal would do to it before it all melted next spring..
I wouldnt pay that much for it unless it had a bunch of parts coming with it, had a great running and desireable engine/drivetrain, and it truthfully only needed those parts fixed and the rest was as near perfect as possible. That is me though, how bad do you want one and to what length are you willing to go to get one? no rust is better than alot of rust, but a rusty car is more fun than no car.. sucks to live here sometimes, doesnt it? I have 4 cars outside that cant be driven in winter... and one beater on its last legs.. arghhh.
There's much, much better cars out there for what he is asking. Even at 4k, as thumpin said, you're still looking at upards of 10k more to make it a driver. ( that's if you pay someone to do the work ). If not, and you're looking for a project, ( which is exactly what this car would be ) then I would look for one that has minimal rust and needs mechanical work. I'd much rather spend my time building a motor and suspension than I would with a grinder and sandpaper in my hand.
Just my 2c worth.
Just my 2c worth.
Few sane people actually enjoy doing work of this magnatude... If you like taking a year to a decade to rebuild a car, then this is for you..
A year if you have the funds, the skills, the time, and the place to work on it.. Longer if you dont.
Out in the shop, sitting next to the mustang in the pics, is a 67 Cougar that came from California. It has a grand total of 3 rust spots. Both front floors, and one quarter panel where a dent was improperly repaired and rusted out. Its a night and day difference, one is nearly nothing and the other still looks like a car. The amount of work, time, and money spent on the Cougar will be far less and result in a better car than the Mustang, just because it hasnt needed so much rust repair.
The Mustang will still be a nice ride, but the chances of me every making a profit on it are slim. If you dont mind the work and are an afficinado of "Delayed Gratification" then buy the car but work him down on the price, because a car with cancer isnt worth as much as one without, even if it does have a relatively shiny paintjob on the outside.
I wouldnt go over $2500, maybe $3000 if it had the good stuff mentioned above and a new set of tires... etc...
[IMG]local://upfiles/14646/327BCBF6FF60472C9159EC1E7FF5184D.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/14646/98BAC0C8AD4740E589F1D3158DADB067.jpg[/IMG]
A year if you have the funds, the skills, the time, and the place to work on it.. Longer if you dont.Out in the shop, sitting next to the mustang in the pics, is a 67 Cougar that came from California. It has a grand total of 3 rust spots. Both front floors, and one quarter panel where a dent was improperly repaired and rusted out. Its a night and day difference, one is nearly nothing and the other still looks like a car. The amount of work, time, and money spent on the Cougar will be far less and result in a better car than the Mustang, just because it hasnt needed so much rust repair.
The Mustang will still be a nice ride, but the chances of me every making a profit on it are slim. If you dont mind the work and are an afficinado of "Delayed Gratification" then buy the car but work him down on the price, because a car with cancer isnt worth as much as one without, even if it does have a relatively shiny paintjob on the outside.
I wouldnt go over $2500, maybe $3000 if it had the good stuff mentioned above and a new set of tires... etc...
[IMG]local://upfiles/14646/327BCBF6FF60472C9159EC1E7FF5184D.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/14646/98BAC0C8AD4740E589F1D3158DADB067.jpg[/IMG]
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