Fender Apron top
I am replacing the fender apron on the battery side and the radiator support and repairing the 4 intersections of the 4 fender aprons with the top of the shock towers. (On my 68) My question is: is the top of the front two fender aprons suppose to be flat? Both of mine are kind of wavy. One side actually had body filer between the fender apron/shock tower top and the fender. If anybody has close up pictures, that would be great.
I know my baby has been in a front end collision because I see evidence of a botched repair. It looks like someone lap welded the fender apron on with a torch and carelessly melted holes here and there as he took puffs of his cigarette.
I know my baby has been in a front end collision because I see evidence of a botched repair. It looks like someone lap welded the fender apron on with a torch and carelessly melted holes here and there as he took puffs of his cigarette.
Hello, I am in the process of repairing the same spots on my 67 now. What I have noticed on mine is that the rear apron top is flat ( obvioulsy with the exception of the releifs for the capture nuts). The tops of the shock towers are flat. The forwardaprons then curve down towards the front of the car and the tops (side to side) are somewhat concave i.e. they dip slightly in the middle. I looks to me like this is fron the VIN # stamping process. Hope that helps. Don't know if is absolutely correct, but mine was original.
The bondo does not suprize me, most Mustangs in wet climates have rust holes in the four spots andbondo was the cheep fix. What I have done on two spots that were rotted all the way through is to cut out the rotted section of both the apron and the shock tower and used16ga to butt weld a patch to the shock tower and 18ga to the apron. I am then goingplug weld the apon patch to the shock tower to simulate the factory welds. Also, if you are welding in replacements, use some weld through primer between the overlap to help stave future rust. And use seam sealer on the joints.
Good luck.
The bondo does not suprize me, most Mustangs in wet climates have rust holes in the four spots andbondo was the cheep fix. What I have done on two spots that were rotted all the way through is to cut out the rotted section of both the apron and the shock tower and used16ga to butt weld a patch to the shock tower and 18ga to the apron. I am then goingplug weld the apon patch to the shock tower to simulate the factory welds. Also, if you are welding in replacements, use some weld through primer between the overlap to help stave future rust. And use seam sealer on the joints.
Good luck.
Thanks for the replies. Since I am going to have to take all 4 fender apron to shock tower seams apart, I want to have a good idea of how it should look when I put it back together. Since my car must have had a front end collision, I do not trust that either side is as it should be. I also have a 67, but unfortunately, it has also been in a major front end collision.
Does anybody have a picture of the top of the fender aprons?
Thanks.
Does anybody have a picture of the top of the fender aprons?
Thanks.
Here are pics of my 65. Mine are flat on the top of the apron, and I seriously doubt that changed for the 68.
[IMG]local://upfiles/10034/11F9E4847AB3497B88D78ED838B047A8.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/10034/1E77828592964FC78F9AF2E3EA982DBF.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/10034/2BB4F64D4E274D1B975BB06C2DEF5D99.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/10034/11F9E4847AB3497B88D78ED838B047A8.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/10034/1E77828592964FC78F9AF2E3EA982DBF.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/10034/2BB4F64D4E274D1B975BB06C2DEF5D99.jpg[/IMG]
Check out www.1968mustang.org. Go to the Photo section and choose the fastback photo album #1. There is a picture of a red fastbacks engine compartment on page 3 that I think will help you.
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