yea same here in west chester pa. oh well so much for the help lol. but i appreciate the advice u have given. my goal for this is to make about 450 or so crank with a stock roller block with the holes for the cleve heads drilled and the 2v cleve heads and teh trick flow stage 2 cam. and the right intake and a 650 carb, which i will eventually make a 700 when i get the money.

also thumpin, how much mahcining is involved in the drilling of a clevor motor. someone is offering to do and put in the cleve pistons and cam for 1200 what do u think?

 

The inspiration was a circletrack magazine article long ago where B&A built one that dyno'd at 485 hp and ran 3 seasons strong. I entered my data as best I could into dyno2000, including head flow numbers from a pantera club member with heads like mine. It output 418hp and 435 trq. I'm at 5000 ft altitude so subtract 15% from that.

 

Well The pistons have to look like this one for a BOSS 302, they cant be the regular 302 slugs unless they can take the valve pocket where this one has it. This pic is a JE racing piston, JEP-131656-8 $702.95 for a full set. If they can get the right pistons cheap enough to put those heads on then great. Otherwise you will be severely limited in cam selection so you dont smack the valves.

Machine work is getting the coolant passages figured out and cutting the rocker arm pedestals down so you can use a stud and guide plate. How much it costs depends on what your shop charges.

I thought you had found this article that explains most of it, since the thread has the same name as the article. It details the mods needed to the heads, well at least the coolant mods. Plenty of good pics, and the pistons are custom made units to raise compression and provide quench in the open chamber of the 2V heads. Really nice slugs.. I bet pricey too.
http://www.mustangandfords.com/techa...clevor_engine/

I am not trying to talk anyone out of building one, infact I want to build a couple myself. I just want to keep people from making expensive mistakes or spending more money than they need to. i


[IMG]local://upfiles/14646/1A38EDBFB9D54B7C87175ABFA08BCE29.jpg[/IMG]

 

so once the block is machined the heads have to be also, i thought that it was just teh block that needed it to accept the heads.

 

hey Thump
I'm still a bit confused...why go to all the trouble to build a Clevor top end without a boss style bottom end?

And either way, how much better engine are you going to get with cast heads compared to whats available in aftermarket alum heads anyway???

i aint knocking the idea, just seems to be big expense and not sure of the gains compared to aftermarket

what do you think?

 

The idea is how cheap the parts are. A set of 2V heads are dirt cheap, and they flow better than GT40 heads do. They are up there with aluminum heads and race oriented stuff.

As for the bottom end, what difference does it make if it doesnt have 4 bolt mains? if you can find the pistons at a reasonable cost, you can make really good power for the price of a stock rebuild and an intake. if Bush or CHI sells the intake, then you are halfway there.

I have all these parts layin around, it would be nice to build something other than a stock 289 or 302 out of them.

The hook is how well they flow. People are always saying on here that the W heads flow alot better than the Cleveland heads. Well maybe the high end ported race heads do. Thing is, it doesnt take much to get good flow from a Cleveland, the valve layout is superior to the wedge head of the W. There arent many cheap Windsor style heads that can flow nearly 300cfm intake and 180cfm exhaust. Throw in how cheap you can find a 2V M head with hardened seats and it looks very attractive. I really cant see how so many people will say how much better the W heads are when they have nothing to back it up and verey little experience with either of them. No I am not pointing a finger at you Aussie, you have been messing with them for a while.

Making power with junkyard parts on a budget is how some of us are forced to go fast. In the 25 years I have been building and racing my cars, I have bought one set of aftermarket heads, and I havent even gotten a good pass out of them yet. Some stock parts are really good, some arent as good.

Yeah the bottom end might be a bit more $$ to build, but what you get in return is worth it.

 

makes it sound easy i want a boss 289 that would be bitchin

i thought that m heads were junk btw

 

+1

btw, if someone was that worried about the bottom end just add a main girdle. oh yeah... and a 351 clevor trumps a 289/302 - but i wanna build a 408/427 clevor with the 4V heads. i think thats enough cubes where the heads wont be such overkill.

 

So, as a summary,you can get the heads cheap, fit hardened valves and seats (assuming not the m heads), a little p&p and general clean up...and still be cheaper than aftermarket alum heads for similar or better flow.

Then theres the work for water channel mods...do it at the same time as the clean up.

Bearings, bottom end work all pretty stock. Pistons a bit more expensive. Add cam, carb and a few extra dollars for the clevor inlet manifold and you end up with a 302 with round280 - 330hp at the fly for same or less than building it all up as Windsor?? Hows this all sounding so far?

my77, i'd love to go down the 351 -> 408 path but too much workto fitmy 66 and 351w blocks are hard to get here.

the question i'd pose is...302->347, looking for 400 - 425 at the fly, bucket loads of torque, strong and reliable but willing and capable to pull high revs (b/c a screaming small block is the best noise on the planet)...would you still use the clevor combination?

i am in no position to build this yet, just looking at the options of which there are too many!!!

 

There aren't any cheap W heads that flow that well! And P&P iron stockers would be lucky to flow 2/3 of that, no matter what some seem to think. 2V Cs may flow 250 and 4Vs may get to 300. Match the cam to your flow numbers and the power will come.