Hi eZ. Sorry for the delay.
The spaghetticode wiring diagrams of the 65's are **** hard to read (if not used to it).

So as you hotwiring under the bonnet we want to get your switch going again.

First of all: check the fusebox and the wiring sockets on firewall (replug and clean them). nearly bet a pint that's it already.
If that doesn't help:

a) don't put key in ignition, but make sure the battery works fine.
you should have plus on the + side of starter relais (what you call solenoid)

b) use a lamp or multimeter and check if the ignition switch has power.
There should be 12V+ on the yellow cable of the ignition switch.
If this is not given, nothing will work.
If there is no power check the yellow-black cable from starter relais all the way to firewall socket (does it still have 12V+ there? and then check the yellow-black cable in fusebox. still 12V+there? change the fuse attached to it anyways . after tyhe fuse the cable should be yellow. do you have 12V+ there and so on.
You need to get this 12V on the yellow cable of ignition switch.

c) if you have 12V+ there, put in the key and turn to ignition position.
You have a black-green cable there that now should be 12V+ as well.
This will feed 12V+ to all car when ignition is turned on.
for example it gives + to both the oil control lamp and the alternator control lamp.
If you have 12V+ on green-black after ignition is switched on, let me know and we'll go from there (but i guess this is not the case as you say you have no oil/gen lights on at that stage)
If you have 12V at yellow (ignition switch), but not 12V on green-black when ignition is turned on, then I'm nearly positive it's the ignition switch (any other case should be a short circuit and I guess you would have realised that and I think short wiring wouldn't even work then)

Hope it helps

Kalli

 

need to go get a voltage reader...ill work on this tomarrow morning thank you.


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Make sure all the original wiring is still on the soleniod!

 

Hi eZ, one of those lamps that light up when they get 12V will do as well in case you have one

http://www.stu-offroad.com/electrica.../testlight.htm

you should get them in every car part supply shop. they cost about 5$ .... good for most jobs

full blown multimeter would cost you tenfold.

Kalli

 

piece of **** test light dont work


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yah. when you turn on ignition they shopuld both go red (when car is not started). Not too sure.
It might say "ALT" instead of "GEN". The other one is the one to check for oil pressure

 

ah crap ... replace the bulb ..
as said. everty part store should have em for a fiver and you can test it straight on the battery

 

any news on this one ?

 

yea i figured it out. it was the neutral safety switch...thanx so much for your help kalli...just trying to figure out a way to wire up the neutral safety switch so i dont have to pay 120$ for the damn wires


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ah man... i always forget about that switch because I drive neutral ....

did you hotwire that switch ? i guess no as you say it's with the cables.
But why not just run new cheap cables instead of a full harness ? which cable doesn't work ? the one going to starter relais, or the one going to ignition switch (S) ?

Kalli