I am a new owner of a 1970 Mustang. it has a 302 2 barrel.
I notice when I'm driving it has a noticeable valve clatter or pinging. The oil is clean and pressure is good.
Tried a little lead additive but did not notice any change.
Could this be the gas I'm using? Regular 87. Valve adjustment?
Just looking for direction to pin pointing the problem

Thanks
Ray

 

Check the FAQ for valve adjustment as I think that is most likely the course. When mine need adjusting the sound is definatly a clatter rather than a ping.

 

I too have some valve clatter issues, so I am interested in the cause and possible fixes as well. I am going to start running a heavier oil like a 10W40 since I am down in the hot South Texas climate. Hopefully that will take care of most of the issues. From what I have read, the number one thing to do is adjust the rocker lash or slack. Another thing to check is valve spring tension and lifter tension. I think these numbers are different depending on what motor, cam, and type of lifters you have so you will need to check with someone who knows all the info for your setup. I am no expert. My problem is 351C do not have adjustable rockers, so gotta get that fixed first.

 

Ummm.. why do you want to get that "fixed"? Its not a problem. If I'm not mistaken most factory ford v-8's have hydraulic valve lash. Which means that there is NO valve lash adjustment because, on a hydraulic system the lifters automatically adjust. Not to mention if the engine isnt running, all the oil will run out fo the lifters and what ever lash gap you might have will not be accurate. So if you did adjust it to lets say 0 lash the car probably wouldnt start because once the lifters pump up with oil the valves wouldnt be able to close.
But if you do want to "fix" this problem youll need a solid or mechanical cam with matching lifters and adjustable rockers.

But as for the oil thing youre absolutely right on the money. Older cars have larger tolerances so if you run a 5w30 oil the lifters will make A LOT of clatter. In cold climates you should run a 10w30 in hot climates you should run 10w40 if not 20w50.


As to answer Ray, you said the oil was clean, but is there enough of it? Does your car have the proper dipstick? More often than not valvetrain clatter is caused by lack of oil or as stated above improper weight.
-P.

 

Something else to keep in mind, if your car has a catalytic converter do not use Lead based gas or Lead additives, they will destroy the cat. Depending on the severity of the clatter, you can do one of a few things. 20W-50 for hot climates (previously mentioned) or take the valve covers off and check the valve clearance and springs. Sticky lifters are common in higher mileage cars or you could have a weak spring or two depending on the age of the motor as well.

 

That FAQ article is not entirely satisfactory as it ignores the fact that Ford used FIVE different schemes rocker arm alignment schemes with the small block V8.
See http://phystutor.tripod.com/stang/engines/small.html
RayM's 1970 2V 302 would come stock with NONADJUSTIBLE rocker arms. In 1970 a positive stop was put into the rocker stud and the retainer nut was torqued to spec (this facilitates assembly line manufacturing). If you do not get proper rocker preload at the specified torque a longer or shorter push rod is needed. Adjustible push rods are avaliable (Summit is one place) for determining the length of push rod required but these are for engine building only. Once the required length is determined you purchase the appropirate length push rod.

MustangSteve has a good FAQ push rod preload for both adjustible and nonadjustible engines.
http://www.mustangsteve.com/msFAQengine.html

RayM - you need to figure out if you have pinging or clattering. The easiest thing to do would be to use some higher octane gas. The information on the internet about the compression ratio of a 1970 302 is somewhat variable but a common number is 9.5:1 which is too high for 87 octane given the engine technology of the day. The other thing you can check is your timing - too much advance produces ping.

 

Thanks everyone for the information. This gives me a lot of things to check, which I needed as I did not know where to start. Sounds like:

1. Higher Octane gas to check if pinging or Clatter
2. Replace oil with heavier weight ,20W-50, we are in Ohio summers 80-90, I do not know what is in it
as I just got the car.
3. Timing - too much advance produces ping.
4. Check the valve clearance and springs
5. Sticky lifters or weak springs

I will postwhen I find the problem

Thanks again
Ray

 

Something else to keep in mind, mechanical stuff makes mechanical noise. The LEVEL of noise is important, as certain engines will NEVER be whisper quiet and some noise is to be expected. My 302 is hydraulic roller cam/lifters, full roller rockers, beehive springs, and I run 30w oil(fine for my engine/setup) and get PLENTY of oil to the valve train, and it STILL makes noise(you can't hear it with the hood down, but if you open it and listen at idle you can hear some noise). Most pushrod engines, especially older ones tend to make some level of noise even with 0 lash hydraulic setups, it's a mechanical beast after all. And yeah, you need to determine if it's pinging or valve noise, and DON'T PING!!! You can annhilate cast factory style pistons that way

 

Sometimes too much information is overload. These guys are dead right on, but the only thing I would do would be to adjust the timing with my ear to get rid of the pinging. My 289 runs just fine with no pinging using 87 octane gas. The timing is about 10 BTDC, but it is there because of the level of atmospheric conditions where I live.
Just make sure you are pinging and not rattling. Rattling is loose lifters. Pinging is pre-detonation.