engine oil
6th Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 10,468
From: California
RE: engine oil
For the record, I run Castrol HD straight 30 mineral(for now, may change to synthetic). Straight wt oils last longer than multiweights because they're more stable, multiweights are good for varried weather conditions(I run 10-30 in the winter here, otherwise the car is pumping molasses). As far as synthetic vs. mineral, they'll lubricate the SAME!! Look on the back of the bottle, in the circle that says API Service Rating. SM rated oil in synthetic meets the SAME LUBRICATING STANDARD as SM rated mineral. The advantages of synthetic over mineral, is they flow more freely for the same oil weight(which may or may not be good depending on the engine setup) and they may be able to last longer due to better stability over mineral oils. That being said, just because oil is synthetic doesn't mean you can run it forever before you change it, driving conditions and engine setup will dictate how often you change the oil. You change it when you need it, and if you run an engine hard and often, you'll change it more often(you can never change it too often though). If you find that you change your oil every 2-3k miles due to use/need then you might as well use mineral oil, and under high performance street conditions it works just fine, if you can get away with 15,000k miles between changes, then synthetic may be worth the money due to the better stability over longer time periods. If you can afford it synthetic is a better bet, mainly because the oil companies put better addative packages in the synthetic oils as opposed to mineral oils,so they'remore resistant acid and deposit buildup
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 551
RE: engine oil
ORIGINAL: Soaring
It will be the right choice. There is absolutely no question that synthetic oil lubricates engine parts better than dino oil. If maximum engine protection is what you are looking for, then change your oil to synthetic with a decent filter such as the WIX. Run the synthetic for 5K, then change the filter and run it for another 5K. Change the filter then run it for another 5K. Change the oil and run it for another 5K. I'm not sure what is not understood about this process. Obviously you are going to have to add a quart between all these changes.
Hello, and welcome to the 21st century.
Even you guys who are still running dino oil don't have to change every 3K miles. That ploy was invented years ago by the oil companies to sell more oil. You can easily run a dino oil for 5-6K miles without having to change.
ORIGINAL: JWM59
I was hopeing that this thread would help me to make an educated choice for myself. I am currently running syntec. I visited my engine guy this past week because I have a little tapping noise going on. He said not to worry that I just needed a adjustment. Anyway he asked me what oil I was running and he blasted me for using synthetic. He said that regular oil is better for old engines due to the seals that were used. He said the rear seals are a two piece design and just rely on a rubber seal then he showed me a newer style seal that had a coiled up spring in it that seals tighter.
Like Soaring I also have done a lot of reading on synthetic and the piece of mind you get from all the added protection and benefits is well worth the cost of the oil. I am personally leaning toward synthetic I just hope it's the right choice.
I was hopeing that this thread would help me to make an educated choice for myself. I am currently running syntec. I visited my engine guy this past week because I have a little tapping noise going on. He said not to worry that I just needed a adjustment. Anyway he asked me what oil I was running and he blasted me for using synthetic. He said that regular oil is better for old engines due to the seals that were used. He said the rear seals are a two piece design and just rely on a rubber seal then he showed me a newer style seal that had a coiled up spring in it that seals tighter.
Like Soaring I also have done a lot of reading on synthetic and the piece of mind you get from all the added protection and benefits is well worth the cost of the oil. I am personally leaning toward synthetic I just hope it's the right choice.
Hello, and welcome to the 21st century.
Even you guys who are still running dino oil don't have to change every 3K miles. That ploy was invented years ago by the oil companies to sell more oil. You can easily run a dino oil for 5-6K miles without having to change.
However, I do agree with you on the 3k changes...don't need it with GTX.
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 551
RE: engine oil
ORIGINAL: 67mustang302
For the record, I run Castrol HD straight 30 mineral(for now, may change to synthetic). Straight wt oils last longer than multiweights because they're more stable, multiweights are good for varried weather conditions(I run 10-30 in the winter here, otherwise the car is pumping molasses). As far as synthetic vs. mineral, they'll lubricate the SAME!! Look on the back of the bottle, in the circle that says API Service Rating. SM rated oil in synthetic meets the SAME LUBRICATING STANDARD as SM rated mineral. The advantages of synthetic over mineral, is they flow more freely for the same oil weight(which may or may not be good depending on the engine setup) and they may be able to last longer due to better stability over mineral oils. That being said, just because oil is synthetic doesn't mean you can run it forever before you change it, driving conditions and engine setup will dictate how often you change the oil. You change it when you need it, and if you run an engine hard and often, you'll change it more often(you can never change it too often though). If you find that you change your oil every 2-3k miles due to use/need then you might as well use mineral oil, and under high performance street conditions it works just fine, if you can get away with 15,000k miles between changes, then synthetic may be worth the money due to the better stability over longer time periods. If you can afford it synthetic is a better bet, mainly because the oil companies put better addative packages in the synthetic oils as opposed to mineral oils, so they're more resistant acid and deposit buildup
For the record, I run Castrol HD straight 30 mineral(for now, may change to synthetic). Straight wt oils last longer than multiweights because they're more stable, multiweights are good for varried weather conditions(I run 10-30 in the winter here, otherwise the car is pumping molasses). As far as synthetic vs. mineral, they'll lubricate the SAME!! Look on the back of the bottle, in the circle that says API Service Rating. SM rated oil in synthetic meets the SAME LUBRICATING STANDARD as SM rated mineral. The advantages of synthetic over mineral, is they flow more freely for the same oil weight(which may or may not be good depending on the engine setup) and they may be able to last longer due to better stability over mineral oils. That being said, just because oil is synthetic doesn't mean you can run it forever before you change it, driving conditions and engine setup will dictate how often you change the oil. You change it when you need it, and if you run an engine hard and often, you'll change it more often(you can never change it too often though). If you find that you change your oil every 2-3k miles due to use/need then you might as well use mineral oil, and under high performance street conditions it works just fine, if you can get away with 15,000k miles between changes, then synthetic may be worth the money due to the better stability over longer time periods. If you can afford it synthetic is a better bet, mainly because the oil companies put better addative packages in the synthetic oils as opposed to mineral oils, so they're more resistant acid and deposit buildup
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 551
RE: engine oil
ORIGINAL: Brandontyler65
if you have the original manual for your mustang it tells you that your oild should be changed 6months or 5k miles what ever comes first and that was with the crappy oil back then
if you have the original manual for your mustang it tells you that your oild should be changed 6months or 5k miles what ever comes first and that was with the crappy oil back then
I ♥ Acer
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 17,565
From:
RE: engine oil
The fact is that a company can build a petroleum oil that is better than a synthetic oil if the best base oil is used, if the refining process is extensive, and if the additive package is robust. However most synthetic oils are better than petroleum oils because most petroleum oils don’t have the best base oils, aren’t refined very much and just use the amount of additive package to make it pass the minimum tests.
An oil has a specific wear rate. Some oils have high coefficient of friction and some have low coefficient of friction. Bothpremium petroleumoils andsynthetic oils have very low coefficient of friction and will keep wear to the absolute minimum. Go with the best, I use the Royal Purple full synthetic, but the decision is yours.
An oil has a specific wear rate. Some oils have high coefficient of friction and some have low coefficient of friction. Bothpremium petroleumoils andsynthetic oils have very low coefficient of friction and will keep wear to the absolute minimum. Go with the best, I use the Royal Purple full synthetic, but the decision is yours.
6th Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 10,468
From: California
RE: engine oil
ORIGINAL: mikethebike
A race car builder I knew ikn Charleston back in t 70's/80's used CastrolHD 30 in his 1972 Gran Torino Sport/351-c 4 barrell fully equipped ride. He changed the filter every 3k, added a qt every 1500 and in 1997 when he sold the car for junk with 400,000+ miles on it he had never drained the crankcase. Never went into the engine.
ORIGINAL: 67mustang302
For the record, I run Castrol HD straight 30 mineral(for now, may change to synthetic). Straight wt oils last longer than multiweights because they're more stable, multiweights are good for varried weather conditions(I run 10-30 in the winter here, otherwise the car is pumping molasses). As far as synthetic vs. mineral, they'll lubricate the SAME!! Look on the back of the bottle, in the circle that says API Service Rating. SM rated oil in synthetic meets the SAME LUBRICATING STANDARD as SM rated mineral. The advantages of synthetic over mineral, is they flow more freely for the same oil weight(which may or may not be good depending on the engine setup) and they may be able to last longer due to better stability over mineral oils. That being said, just because oil is synthetic doesn't mean you can run it forever before you change it, driving conditions and engine setup will dictate how often you change the oil. You change it when you need it, and if you run an engine hard and often, you'll change it more often(you can never change it too often though). If you find that you change your oil every 2-3k miles due to use/need then you might as well use mineral oil, and under high performance street conditions it works just fine, if you can get away with 15,000k miles between changes, then synthetic may be worth the money due to the better stability over longer time periods. If you can afford it synthetic is a better bet, mainly because the oil companies put better addative packages in the synthetic oils as opposed to mineral oils,so they'remore resistant acid and deposit buildup
For the record, I run Castrol HD straight 30 mineral(for now, may change to synthetic). Straight wt oils last longer than multiweights because they're more stable, multiweights are good for varried weather conditions(I run 10-30 in the winter here, otherwise the car is pumping molasses). As far as synthetic vs. mineral, they'll lubricate the SAME!! Look on the back of the bottle, in the circle that says API Service Rating. SM rated oil in synthetic meets the SAME LUBRICATING STANDARD as SM rated mineral. The advantages of synthetic over mineral, is they flow more freely for the same oil weight(which may or may not be good depending on the engine setup) and they may be able to last longer due to better stability over mineral oils. That being said, just because oil is synthetic doesn't mean you can run it forever before you change it, driving conditions and engine setup will dictate how often you change the oil. You change it when you need it, and if you run an engine hard and often, you'll change it more often(you can never change it too often though). If you find that you change your oil every 2-3k miles due to use/need then you might as well use mineral oil, and under high performance street conditions it works just fine, if you can get away with 15,000k miles between changes, then synthetic may be worth the money due to the better stability over longer time periods. If you can afford it synthetic is a better bet, mainly because the oil companies put better addative packages in the synthetic oils as opposed to mineral oils,so they'remore resistant acid and deposit buildup
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 164
From:
RE: engine oil
I Run moble1 15-50 in my 67. Due to the fact that I will only change it twice a year. I don't think dino oil is bad though. I have a 95 explorer 4.0 with 273,000 on it. allways used pen 5-30 every 5000 miles. It is still running strong uses about 1/3of aqt every 5000.
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 551
RE: engine oil
ORIGINAL: Soaring
The fact is that a company can build a petroleum oil that is better than a synthetic oil if the best base oil is used, if the refining process is extensive, and if the additive package is robust. However most synthetic oils are better than petroleum oils because most petroleum oils don’t have the best base oils, aren’t refined very much and just use the amount of additive package to make it pass the minimum tests.
An oil has a specific wear rate. Some oils have high coefficient of friction and some have low coefficient of friction. Both premium petroleum oils and synthetic oils have very low coefficient of friction and will keep wear to the absolute minimum. Go with the best, I use the Royal Purple full synthetic, but the decision is yours.
The fact is that a company can build a petroleum oil that is better than a synthetic oil if the best base oil is used, if the refining process is extensive, and if the additive package is robust. However most synthetic oils are better than petroleum oils because most petroleum oils don’t have the best base oils, aren’t refined very much and just use the amount of additive package to make it pass the minimum tests.
An oil has a specific wear rate. Some oils have high coefficient of friction and some have low coefficient of friction. Both premium petroleum oils and synthetic oils have very low coefficient of friction and will keep wear to the absolute minimum. Go with the best, I use the Royal Purple full synthetic, but the decision is yours.
I ♥ Acer
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 17,565
From:
RE: engine oil
Yeah, I read and research too much. I really need to cut that out. What makes you say I am wasting money? I change my filter every 5K miles, and I change the oil at every 20-K miiles. Let's see.....if my math is correct, that is 4 oil changes of dino oil for every one oil change that I make. I pay 7 bux for a quart and dino oil costs at least a third that amount, so let's say dino costs 2.25 a quart. There are five quarts in an oil change. You have used 20 quarts of dino oil at 2.25. That's 45 bux plus 4 filters.
I have paid 35 bux plus 4 filters. Hmmm...guess who is wasting money?
What makes you say I am wasting money? I change my filter every 5K miles, and I change the oil at every 20-K miiles. Let's see.....if my math is correct, that is 4 oil changes of dino oil for every one oil change that I make. I pay 7 bux for a quart and dino oil costs at least a third that amount, so let's say dino costs 2.25 a quart. There are five quarts in an oil change. You have used 20 quarts of dino oil at 2.25. That's 45 bux plus 4 filters. I have paid 35 bux plus 4 filters. Hmmm...guess who is wasting money?