Anybodyheard of modified(shorter) steering columns to move the steering wheel closer to the dash? I already have a relatively flat Moto Lito wheel, but I want to move it about 3-4" closer to the dash. Any ideas?

 

Check with Flaming River.


They have the steering columns that take the stock unit and add adjustability. They may also have a shorter column.


They seem to be the best company for this type of modification.


http://www.flamingriver.com


Good luck.


I just bought a flat Cobra-style wood wheel that arrived today. I'll install it this weekend. I'm tired of the steering wheel sitting in my lap!

 

why?

 

My same question. The seat moves back and forward.

 

I'm 6' 2" and prefer my driving position far back with arms stretched out on the wheel. As it is now, my seat is all the way back and I need a little more adjustment to be perfect. I will be putting a set of Procar seats in which will most likely raise the seat position slightly making the problem for me worse. Maybe it's tme to customize a seat mount.

 

Hint, you need to modify the Pro Car seat mounts and move them back. If youmount them in their normal position, you will be closer to the dash that stock seats are. So, custom mounts are a must. I move mine back about 4 or 5inches (back seat is useless now). As you move back, the wheel is futher away. I now can stretch my legs completely out and the car is very comfortable to drive.And for those short fellers that can't reach the pedals, just don't let them drive your car, the adjustment lever will still work, if they must. You will love the Pro Cars.

 

Once again the Forum comes through! How did you modify your Procar brackets? I could care less about the back seats.

 

I modified the Pro Car bases byrelocated the holes and drilling and welding in studs. These go thru the bottom of the factory seat bases. Be careful as not to get the weld too high asthis will stop the sliders form working. You will need to mark and redrill the bases also. With the sliders synchronized, put a dob of paint on the bottom of the newly created studs, line up on the front-outside factory hole,and position the seat. The paint will transfer marking the base. You know now where to drill. The hard part is getting the nuts on as now they will be off centered from the factory. They should only be one that is really hard to get (the back one on the hump side). This can be redrilled with a "Vari Bit" or small hole sawif you need to gain access to it.The track spacing is wider on the Pro Cars vs the original. I lined the first hole up on the front rocker panel side hole (didn't have to drill it), and went from there drilling the other three. The track willcantilever therear of the seat base by 3 or 4 inches when you do this, this makes the back seat useless, but can't be seen unless the seat is tilted foward, and moved up. Use washers to space if you need clearance, for the seat to operate back and forth. Theres anOption "B" also if you want to try it, you can cut the old bases out, chop them an inch vertically and move the whole unit back a few inches. You will need to re-drill theaccess holes in the bottom of the car to get the nuts on as they will be off centered.PM if you need futher assistance.