So, I got the timing cover seal in right this time and she runs like a beast.. I did the 20 minute break in between 2000-2500 rpm but I did it without the vacume advance, and every time I try to put it on, the engine starts running a little crappy and sputtering.. I tried to advance it a little more,, then retard it, but I dont think its working correctly.. It runs good without it though..

So, how do I adjust the vacume advance??I was supprised when I didnt have to do much to the carb to get it to rungood with the new cam (edlebrock performer plus) ,, though it ispretty mild.I will post some video of this thing tonight for all the 351 fans.. Also,, the carb seemed to get pretty hot, the temp guage stayed closer to the L side though.. And is it ok that I am not using the sending unit extension? I broke it when I pulled it out of the block and just taped it out, then plugged my brass fitting for my mechanical pressure guage right into the block.. Is the block going to get too hot for that brass fitting and plastic tube?

 

Make sure you have it hooked to the "timed" port on the distributor. At idle, you should measure ZERO vacuum from the timed port. The "manifold" port, on the other hand, will have vacuum at idle and cause the distributor vacuum advance to kick in prematurely, causing the timing to advance WAYY past normal at idle. Get a vacuum gauge. They're only about 10 bucks at any auto parts store. You can use it to properly set your idle adjustments as well. You want the leanest setting that will give the highest vacuum. - measure the MANIFOLD (continuous) vacuum. On a carter/edlebrock, the driver side is manifold vacuum and the passenger side is the "timed" vacuum that goes to the vacuum cannister.

 

Sounds like your timing's too far advanced and the vacuum advance was kicking it way too high when you connected it. Time it at idel with the vacuum advance disconnected (and plugged), then hook it back up as stated above

 

Make sure the diaphragm is not broken in the distributor, while I don't think that the vacuum leaking past a broken diaphragm should be enough to disturb the air / fuel mixture but just in case...

IMO it would probably be a good idea to use a carb spacer to cool things down a little.

The plastic oil line will not get too hot IMO.

And congratulations on your engine!!

 

Ya know....is this a Holley carb? I saw a note on another forum mentioning that Holley's can have gasket shrinkage issues, especially when left for long periods of time, that will cause the ported vacuum to leach off the manifold vacuum. This would cause an overly advanced condition at idle

 

Hmmm,,, I dont think its a holley.. Im actually not sure what it is.. I know it was replaced in 03 though because I have the reciept for it in my stack of junk paper that came with the car.. Take a look,, any ideas on what it is..

[IMG]local://upfiles/62217/341758C96FEE404D9284DAADF27C9773.jpg[/IMG]

 

Autolite 2100?

 

Thats what I was thinking.. I need to look up the numbers and quit being lazy..

 

Definitely a 2100. Hook up a vacuum gauge to the ported vacuum port and see what it reads at idle. It should be very close to zero. If not, either you're hooked into manifold vacuum, orsomething's wrong with the carb. Possibly a crack somewhere; I'm not ultra familiar with the internal design of those things, but there's no gasket down there to crack, so it's not that.