Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

Pertronix and ballast resistor help

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Oct 27, 2007 | 10:04 PM
  #11  
Starfury's Avatar
Starfury
6th Gear Member
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,896
From: Elk Grove, CA
Default RE: Pertronix and ballast resistor help

If you've done the ignition resistor bypass, then yes. With 12V feeding the Pertronix and a 40kV coil, you'll have enough voltage to open up the plug gap to .040" or so.
Old Jan 15, 2021 | 11:04 AM
  #12  
Thomas Cole Startt's Avatar
Thomas Cole Startt
 
Joined: Jan 2021
Posts: 1
From: GA
Default Resistor wire bypass

Originally Posted by kaliona
I just installed the Pertronix ignitor and Flamethrower coil in my son's 67. According to the installation instructions that came with the coil, I need to remove the ballast resistor when I install this (1.5 ohm) coil on an 8 cyl. engine. I'm getting about 6.5 volts at the coil which indicates a resistor of some sort is present. Reading through other threads I foundout mycar hasa pink resistance wire. How do I bypass this wire? Does one end of this existing pink wire connect to the + terminal of the coil, and the other end is at the ignition switch? If so, I guess I would just remove that pink wire, run a new wire from the coil, through the firewall, to the ignition switch, right? I just want to make sure I'm doing the right thing before I start messing with the ignition switch. The car starts and runs the way it's hooked up now with the resistor wire, but I guess it would run better if it were getting a full 12 volts to the ignitor. Is it a big deal getting to the ignition switch? I know Soaring said it was a piece of cake, but he know's what he's doing, and I hate electrical work.

Here are the other threads I've read about ballast resistors. I'm just getting confused with all the ways to bypass the resistor.
https://mustangforums.com/m_2679523/tm.htm
https://mustangforums.com/m_3496349/tm.htm

Any help would be appreciated: What wire gauge to use to bypass, how to open the ignition switch and which wire on the switch to bypass.
Hey! I am aware that this thread is rather old, but I am just now facing this same issue. I can't seem to find a simple answer on this pink resistor wire. I am running a brand new summit racing RTR distributor and summit racing coil. The new dizzy needs the constant 12v, do you think you could give me the instructions on how to run a new wire from the ignition to the coil. I am pretty new to this so I am trying to learn. Also what kind of "new" wire do I need? What gauge?
Old Jan 15, 2021 | 10:36 PM
  #13  
imp's Avatar
imp
3rd Gear Member
 
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 849
From: AZ
Default

Originally Posted by Thomas Cole Startt
Hey! I am aware that this thread is rather old, but I am just now facing this same issue. I can't seem to find a simple answer on this pink resistor wire. I am running a brand new summit racing RTR distributor and summit racing coil. The new dizzy needs the constant 12v, do you think you could give me the instructions on how to run a new wire from the ignition to the coil. I am pretty new to this so I am trying to learn. Also what kind of "new" wire do I need? What gauge?
The "pink" resistance wire feeding the stock factory ignition coil (through the ignition points) "drops" a few volts over it's length, leaving less than 13-14 volts or so (eng. running, alternator supplying power) at the coil. This concept dates all the way back to the days when the major car makers switched to 12 volts from 6. Intent was to protect the coil from the occasion when the key was left ON, eng. not running, and the ignition points happened to be closed; this overheated the coil. Most carbuilders used separate resistors, sometimes mounted on the firewall. Ford introduced the resistance wire feed back in the 60s.

Since they are usually PINK, this wire is easily traceable, running from the ignition switch to the coil. Simplest way to eliminate it is to just add a common, insulated copper wire running along with it, in parallel. The new wire may be connected at the ignition switch, same terminal as the pink, in the car, and the other end connected to the coil terminal along with the old pink one; you need not remove the pink wire at all. The effect electrically of paralleling the two is virtually the same as removing the pink and adding the fresh new wire. Use wire having high-temperature rated insulation; it gets HOT under hood. Insulation type THHN/THWN is ideal, having a nylon outer wrap. Size the wire sensibly, #16 AWG is big enough to carry 10 amps. I would go no SMALLER than # 18. If leaving the pink wire in place makes you "squirrely", go ahead and remove it.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
rusty65
Classic Mustangs (Tech)
5
Aug 14, 2012 05:18 PM
wonso79
Classic Mustangs (Tech)
22
Apr 1, 2011 11:12 AM
mortman
Classic Mustangs (Tech)
7
Nov 4, 2008 08:27 PM
kaiser18
Classic Mustangs (Tech)
5
Apr 8, 2008 01:30 PM
Brandontyler65
Classic Mustangs (Tech)
8
Aug 9, 2006 05:45 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:29 PM.