i am wiring up a new summitt harness with the original plugs to my 68 FB. when i hook up the blinkers, no matter what combination of wiring contacts i use both lights blink. the blink like the hazard lights would blink. even when the hazards are not hooked up. i have tried all kinds of grounding possibilities. somehow the current is crossing over to both at the same time. i have unhooked the back rear wiring completely as well as all of the front lighting except for the blinkers and they still both blink.

can anyone give me an idea?

 

i have no idea about nhazears, as my car doesn't have any. but the 69 has 2 blinker relays. You sure yiou hooked up the right one ?

 

When you have odd results it's usually a ground problem at the lights that feeds back into the T/S switch through the unused (running light) half of the lamp filimant. Get the WDM out and make sure the thing is wired like you think it is. On my 66 the lamp housing itself is the ground for the light circuits. If yours is the same, make sure that they are properly grounded, if you have a 3rd ground wire make sure it goes to the body. Lastly,make surethe body/chassis is grounded to the battery theough the engine strap. good luck

 

Give us a detailed description of what you have hooked up. What color of wire is hooked to what? What Summit harness are you talking about? What color of Summit wire do you have hooked to what? I completely replaced the wiring in my 66 and had similar troubles with the turn signal wiring. It was what gave me the most trouble. I played with the wiring for hours before realizing my issue was due to the bulb not being placed into the housing properly. Not saying that's the issue you're having, I'm just saying it really could be just about ANYTHING at this point! I'd be glad to take a look at your wiring diagrams and help you out, just give me some more detail.

 

It could be a couple of things wrong. Feed thur (bad ground) is the norm. Usually a bad groung and will show up in lights being very dim or slow to blink or both. By the info you have given, I would look at the turn signal switch. Also, the old flasher units are thermally activated which means if a bulb is burnt out, then their is not enough resistance to make the flasher work. This can easily be resolved by using solid state flasher units and is a must if you do anything different to the lights (brighter bulbs, more bulbs, dynamite sticks)I think they cost about 18 bucks and are worth every penny. If you loose a bulb, they still work. Your flashercircuits are normallyhot prior to the switch. The Emergency flasher circuitis always hot, and the turn signalflasheris keyed hot, you can check "both" flasher circuitswith a test light. So does everything blink with the key off?Here is some color codes that may help.
Brake light switch-----LIGHT GREEN
RR Turn-----ORANGE/blue stripe
LR Turn-----GREEN/orange stripe or BLUE
Turn Signal Power---- PURPLE/yellow stripe
Hazard Power-----WHITE/red stripe
RF Turn-----WHITE/Blue stripe
LF Turn-----GREEN/White stripe
HORN-----BIG YELLOW
Remember this can vary, so check it out with a test light especially the Power (flasher) circuits.