I am going to be replacing my points and condenser this weekend. Never done it before. Is there anything special I should know. Is there a gap I need to set?


Thanks in advance

 

id do the conversion through petronixs http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...115+4294873053

 

Thats definately in the future as an upgrade. I just want to to it on the road before I start introducing new stuff. Nice to see another 67 390 out there.

 

I love the 67 390s and for that I'll give you advise ;-) so you might inherit your car to me at some stage :-]

you'll need at least a feeler gauge. some people might have a different suggestion to measure the gap. if they have go with that. I've heard all sorts from matchbox carton to i don't know what else

if you have only one a single breaker point, then
the change is very very simple, but you have to set the gap.
do the change with battery off (battery- disconnected from battery).
remove cap, rotor (just for easy access), remove point and condesor.
put the new parts in and tighten the screws, but only slightly tighten the one that holds down the breaker.
tighten as much as that you can move the braker around a little but so that it won't move on it's own.
now you'll see that there are 8 "humps" on the spindle in the middle of distri that will open and close the breaker.
now turn your engine manually so much that the breaker is sitting right on the middle of one of those humps.
(doesn't matter which one of those 8)
If you have a manual tranny, then you can achieve this by putting into high gear and pushing the car back and forth.
once it's sitting on middle of hump move the braker on the plate so you'll have the exact gap (i'll look that up in a sec).
then tighten the screw holding the braker and re-check if the gap is still ok and the thing still sitting on the middle of the hump.

If you have a dwell meter then let us know and i can give you instructions on how to improve the setting (dynamic check instead of static).

Reconnect the battery. ask someopne to try and start the enigine with the rotor and cap still off.
You should see the braker opening and closing.
Do another check on highest point on hump. If all ok, put the cap back on (don't forget the rotor). and try to start up.

Hopefully it will run ;-)


Important: after all this you'll have to re-check your ignition. I can almost guarantee you that the initial advance will be wrong.

Reason for this is that changing the gap has effect on the ignition timing.
the bigger the gap, the shorter the closing time, hence it will fire advanced
the smaller the gap the bigger the closing time->it will open later->ignition retarded

god i must be bored ....

oh ... and the gap should be ... ah i don't know 0.018" maybe? does anyone know for sure?
it would be great if you had a dwell meter, because you can't rely measuring the gap (but hey! that's what they did in 67 anyway ;-)

and btw: put a !tiny! bit of proper grease on the rubbing block of the contact (where the point touches the distributor shaft) and give it 2 drops of oil (no more) where the rotor is sitting (right into the shaft under rotor)

Kalli

 

Wow thanks for the write up, kalli. I am light on tools right now so I dont have one of those dwell meters. Having to borrow a torque wrench from a friend so that I can redo my intake manifold gasket. I'll have to pickup a feeler gauge set. Along with a battery charger [mine is for sure dead]. I do have a socket set though.

 

for the points themselbver you'll only need a screwdrive to get that cap off and maybe a different one for the points to take of. that should be the size of it.
The car should run fine without adjusting ignition after the change, but I strongly recommend to do it.
Improved performance, better gas mileage and advance too far off will kill engine in the long run (detonations, heat ...)
for adjusting the ignition you'll need a timing strobe. ask around a friend of yours might have one.
Or bring to a garage round the corner to have them adjust it to lets say 10 degrees before TDC on idle without vacuum.
if you can't organise a strobe let us know, we can give you a hand.

Don't worry too much about the dwell meter. it is by far more correct but as said they did it with a feeler gauge 40 years ago so it should be ok.

If you don't need to keep your car to stock specs, then as mentioned before those ignitor modules are highly recommended.
But I guess you have the new points already, so work with them.

Remember the points will need re-adjusting every now and again

Kalli

 

So if I get the new eltronic points, then I save myself a lot work and need for adjusting and posibly screwing my engine up. I'm sold.

 

jeez, lots of info in here your going to have to print this out and bring it into your garage, but you can get a timming light ( strobe ) at sears for like 30 bucks

 

ya, you would still have to do the timing, and u could barrow mine if you didnt want to buy one im not to far from you, im in sacramento

 

That would work. I appreciate the offer. Eventually I gotta buy all this stuff anyways. Also on the list is a battery charger. I'll probably stop by Sears in Sac there tonight to get that and a timing light. Attached is the beauty [lol]

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