I know you and I didn't do so well on the last thread, but I really do want to help you with your car(s). Let's put that last thread in the past and move forward.

Yes, you're exactly right about a lot of the holes being missing/closed up.

Remember what I said in that "other thread", UP was not building 1967 Fastbacks. They were building "their" version of one, but enhanced/modernized in most areas.

Yes, UP used a hydraulic clutch. I can't remember if it was a Baer or SSBC component, but it's installation is detailed on Richards CD.

Yes, the battery gets relocated to the trunk.... this is something that's done to a lot of Mustangs, not just the UP cars. The less weight in the front... and the more weight in the rear.... the better for handling and traction.

Yes, the rear shock holes are gone because UP used their own custom rear coil-over suspension that would negate the need for traditional shocks. On this note, while you have an original car (the slightly rusty one) and the UP shell car side by side,compare the measurements of the rear suspension... primarily the leaf spring attachment points. Your UPshell may be missing the leaf spring rear attachment points as UP wouldn't have needed them, but I'm very curious about the front attachment points. Are the UP shell rear torque boxes identical to an original Mustang? They should be... but I have been unable to verify as I can't seem to get 2 cars side by side (as you have).

I can't remember why you'd have no holes in the firewall for the heater core....? I'll look tonight and get back to you on this.....

Dave

 

I'm not sure if I understand the logic in these two statements, please explain why you'd want to E-coat rusty/rotted frame rails? Did you mean dip the whole car and then E-coat from the firewall back? This makes more sense to me.

While I agree that a good dipping and e-coating would be a great idea, in my opinion, it should have been done already, not once you've finished welding repair panels in place.

Did you notice all of the other posters questioning you about welding new replacement panels onto "rusty metal"? What they're trying to say, without being confrontational, is that this isprobably a "not so great" idea as the rust may come back in some areas.

Dipping WILL get inside all of the big nooks and crannies, framerails, rocker panels, etc., etc., but it won't get into every seam, overlap of metal and areas where panels are welded closely together. Over time, this rust will come right back.

Other forum members (and I notice this on a LOT of forums) would rather say nothing and avoid a possible confrontation than tell you how they "really feel".

Why?

What good does this do anyone?

If you're about to do something wrong or something that I don't agree with, I'm not going to just "let it go", I'm going to give you my advice. AND, I hope that you'all would do the same if it were me! If a confrontation develops as a result of this, so be it, but I'm going to give you my advice whether you like it/agree with it or not.

This forum will be worthless if all we say to each other is.... "Great Job!!"

Dave

 

I agree. Advice should be given honestly and truthfully, not to please everyone. Without getting poiltical, (ATTN: I am NOT getting political!) that what is wrong with the powerhouse in the world today, (who can that be???) pleasing everyone and trying not to offend. That is a weakness and will ultimately crumble away everything. Tell it like it is and the benfits are much better in the end than trying to primering and bondo'ing over rusted metal.

 

Yes,it was a mistake to weld in the new panels to rusty metal. I tried to clean it up with my grinder and da sander as best as possible, but now all that metal has rusted again due to the humidity. I should have cleaned it up better and used weld through primer. I just picked some up at the store on lunch break.


I'll get some pictures of the unique car this evening. The mounts for the springs are still in place. The gas tank hole is the same size-i measured it yesterday.
I've also got a question about a piece of metal that they welded into the inner rocker.

Thanks
Chris

 

Onthe drivers side where thekick panel will install? A piece of 1" L channel?

Ignore it/remove it if you want. It was for routing of some of their unique wire harnesses.

Dave

 

Excuse for temporarily hijacking this thread but I have never really understood the battery relocation project. The weight of the battery is nothing compared to the rest of the car. Can it really make that much difference? And doesn't the relocation place a potentially explosive electrical source very near the gas tank, not to mention the possibilty of that long positive cable breaking or wearing and coming into contact with the negative carrying body?

Jim
(P.S. - I like this signing with your real name thing that you and Chris are doing.)

 

Okay, I popped the hood and as I kinda suspected, the heater hoses AND the AC lines run through the same opening where the traditional fan blower motor would be mounted. The new fan blower motor is integral to the heater box and will not come through this opening like a traditional Mustangs would.

UP used the Old Air Products AC system. I ordered this system, didn't like it, and sold it off. Instead I used the Classic Air system and both units route the heater hoses/AC lines in the same manner (at least through the firewall they do).

Dave

 

Since the battery is normally mounted forward of the passenger side front suspension, it's actually exerting a greater load on that side of the front suspension than just the "pure" weight of the battery.... think "fulcrum".

With that weight removed, the weight of front suspension is better evenly distributed.

If you've ever lived in snow country, you can appreciate the added weight of the battery in the trunk... also placed rearward of the rear suspension and exerting a greater weight than the "pure" weight of thebattery on the rear suspension. It's not uncommon for Northerners to place a couple sand bags orsalt bags in the trunk to gain extra traction on slippery roads. As a side benefit, the sand/salt can be used for when you do run off the road to help get some traction to get you back on the road.... but I digress. The added weight of the battery in the trunk WILL increase traction. To exaggerate the benefits of the "fulcrum", imagine two big guys sitting on the deck lid, the rear of the car lowers (creating more traction) and the front of the car slightly raises (creating a nimbler steering/suspension). Obviously the weight of a little ole battery isn't the same as two big guys, but the effects are the same, just on a smaller scale.

It's not normal for a battery to explode, but if it does, it's in asecure box, hopefully not an ABSplastic one. Batteries that need to bevented are vented via a "drain hose" type fitting/hose that mounts on the side of the box and extends down the trunk drop-off and out the bottom of the rear quarter panel.

How is the spark from a battery in the trunk different than a spark from a tail light?

This is a very real concern. To help minimize any damage thatmight occur to the cars electrical system in the event of either a chaffed positive lead.... or a cut lead as if from an accident, a 250amp mega-fuse can be installed at both ends of the cable. Or, the starter solenoid can also be relocated to the trunk and the heavy wire to the starter similarly fused.... and the return heavy wire from the alternator to the starter solenoid similarly fused. There are several variations of how this can be done, I've touched on a couple, but everyone seems to have their own idea what the "best" way is. Relocating the battery to the trunk is not as simple as just installing a box and sitting the battery in it.... things need to be "thought out" and worked through.

Dave

 

I personally would not move the battery to the trunk for a street car. In my opinion, the risks are greater than the benefits. If I were to put one back there, I would prefer to use a plastic battery box. Moroso makes one that is NHRA approved. My reasoning is that if the box gets crushed, it cannot short the battery terminals. I would also put the tank armor on the top of the tank. Regardless of if I were relocating the battery, I would put in a barrier between the trunk and the passenger compartment.

Regarding the danger of sparks from the battery versus a tail light, there is a very big difference. The tail light circuit is fused. The battery is not.

 

there are many cars on the road today with rear mounted batterys with a similar system and this is fastforward 40 years

saleen did a test and put a 2004 saleen mustang. which is about the same dimensions as a 66fastback. by placing the battery in the passenger rear they effectivly placed 8o lbs on the rear tire. reason? you took fourty off the front and then it balance an then placed 40 in the back. it had the same effect as putting 80 lbs on the back. on the tire you need most. especially if you have limited slip. which most of us probably have.

even if you are not building a race car the added benefits of a properly wieghted car will show even in daily driving.

bmw has somthing when they say all their cars are equally wieghted 50/50.

if you do the kit right then you have nothing to worry about. if it were a real issue we would hear more horror stories. and they would eiether pull the product or label it as off road only kit.