Drop Coils will make the ride horrible over bumps. Due to them not moving as much as the old springs. You only need the template to drill the holes and bolt them back on. No modification is needed for this. Also the shelby drop lowers the car, increases handling, and makes the steering more reactive. Go to Daze's site and read about it.

 

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You don't do the UCA drop for the purpose of lowering the car. the drop is done to improve the camber curve and decrease understeer.


It is 1" down, BUT it is 1" down perpindicular to a line that bisects the existing holes. As was already mentioned there is lots of good info on my web page linked earlier in this thread

 

hi lads,

friend of mine has a 68fastback. His ride is a bit nosehappy, so the front seems to sit a bit higher than the back, which looks awful.
Will the shelby drop be the thing he needs doing? as we were discussing the option of cutting the spring already (which I hate)

kalli

 

the shelby drop will NOT lower the car 1" ...at very most you will lower it 3/8 inch. what you are doing is changing the pivot of the upper control arm for camber gain.and while we are on the subject, (question for dazecars) can the holes on a 65-66 be drilled 1" down, and, say 3/16 back? im asking this because my 65 still doesnt get the caster i want with the holes drilled 1/8 inch back...if i adjust for caster, i cant get the camber right...

 

I have thought of a plan for my coil removal I will lash my coil spring compressor to the coil with strong fishing line with a high breaking strain and It will slow me down but hopefull keep me safe. I don't want to have happern to daze happen to me and I have not the skills to fab his style one.

 

In most cases 3/8" is the amount of ride height drop that you get from relocating the UCA by 1", but depending on coil stiffness the drop will result in 1/4" to 5/8" drop with the stiffer the springs the less ride height change and the softer the springs the more ride height change. As far as drilling the holes further back you can easily do it on a 67+ mustang even as much as 1/8" but on a 64.5-66 you run in to clearience issues with the inner ribbing of the shock tower support and the natural bend of the shock tower. The picture below shows the rear hole on the drivers side. Removing the support ribbing is not an issue, but as the white line shows, the bend in the tower is close and may cause clearence issues with the nut. It can be done but I would not go more than a 1/16". The best way to get that extra caster is to rebuild the UCA and offset the shafts.