So if I buy a Adjustable Proportioning Valve and Distribution Block All-in-One from MustangPlus, I can replace the Distribution Block and "fine tune" pressure to the front discs.

 

[QUOTE=AscolA;5352483]So if I buy a Adjustable Proportioning Valve and Distribution Block All-in-One from MustangPlus, I can replace the Distribution Block and "fine tune" pressure to the front discs.[/QUOTE
Thats the idea. I would get a friend and try bleeding your brakes the traditional way first. Proportioning valve may or may not be your problem. Sorry im no expert just speaking from my own experience. I run ssbc discs up front and drums in the back and they and the pedal stays very tight. I had to bleed them a couple of times before it would stay tight though.

 

The quality of the braking with manual disc brakes depends on two things. One is how hard you push on the pedal and two is how good your calipers are. The Granada one piston calipers are not know as great brake components. I know because I have manual 4 wheel disc with Granada fronts and Monarch rears. If you are looking for better stopping, I would look into a power booster and/or better calipers with more than one cylinder. The more clamping power you have, the better you will stop. Air in the line, crummy calipers, manual braking, etc create lower clamping forces so you stop slower.

I just read an article about road racing with disc/drum brakes, but I cannot remeber where I read it...MOA magazine maybe. The author suggested switching to three or four piston calipers and staying away from Granada one piston calipers. You do not have to spend a ton on fancy calipers, just ones that are more efficent for the force you are applying. A proportioning valve is also important as the author states. When you brake, your cars weight shift forward, so you need more clamping force in the front and less in the rear. If you do not have this adjusted right, you will lock up the rear tires and stop poorly.

NPD has some 4 piston calipers for about $200 each and an adjustable proportioning valve for $50. You can also get 4 piston SSBC calipers for big bucks or you can go all out with new rotors, calipers, and pads for an arm and a leg. If you have Granada front spindles, I have no idea if the cheaper calipers will work, so maybe a braking expert could chime in on that.

 

Thanks for all the info- some good stuff to go off of. I think this weekend, I'll take the everything apart and make sure that everything is functioning properly, and then bleed the system again. I'll see how they work after that and go from there.

 

That IS a proportioning valve. Take a closer look, there's a connector for the brake warning light. It just happens to be painted black.

Don't start throwing big money at it yet.
Try new pads and have the rotors turned if you've determined the calipers are good.

 

There is a plug going into the block. So should there some type of adjuster ****?

 

There is no adjustment. It's a factory style proportioning valve. It's supposed to reduce, delay and maintain slight residual pressure to the back (drum) brakes. The front (disc) brakes require more pressure, a "head start" over the back and a complete release of pressure when you release the brakes.

You may need an adjustable valve to reduce the pressure to the back even more. But first make sure the calipers are in good working order. If the pistons are frozen they won't push the pads against the rotors hard enough to stop schit, the back will be doing all the stopping and your brakes will suck.

Drive around and try not to use the brakes much. Stop and feel how hot the rotors are. (be careful)

Go somewhere safe and try to lock 'em up. See if the back or front lock up first. After you do that put the car in neutral and see how easy it rolls.