what is a 2v 351c really worth anyway?

 

Well, its not that I want a 351C, it was just kind of available. I have a 302 right now, that is in dire need of a rebuild, but just thought I would look into some other options, and go with something different, and hold on to the 302 and maybe you it some other time. Just change it up you know? I went and talked to the guy today, but I got a bad vibe from him (seemed to car salesmanish) But browesing local Craigslist ads, I have found some 351C, and 390's for farily cheap.

So, one more question, the 390, would I have to change the motor mounts to put it in? What about transmission, would a c6 fit in fine or would I have to change anything (i have a c4 now)
Thanks.

 

Really if you're looking to put in a 390 and swap out trannys, springs, mounts, etc.....Rebuild your 302 as a stroker motor instead. A stock 390 is not much of a performance motor unless you luck into some like a Police Interceptor.

 

Whatever someone will pay for it. Really not much more than $400 for one in good condition.

 

Well even if you have 2V heads on it, a $70 core is a good enough place to start. Lets compare a 347 build to a 351C. Since you are building engines of similar displacement that will both bolt in your car relatively easily using mostly the same chassis parts.

To get heads that flow as well as 2V heads you need to go aftermarket for the W engines. You can make 350hp super easy with 2V heads and an aftermarket intake to mount a 4 barrel. Just browsing Summit yesterday, all the heads that flow as good or better than a 2V Cleveland head are $900 and up.

So now its off to get a stroker kit for a 5.0 or a 302 without the one piece rear main seal, which is what you have in your car now. Looking around for a cast kit, since I happen to have five 302s in the shop, and a couple trucks that a 347 or even a 331 would be delightful in, since I cant put the EFI on my Clevelands. I find that a stroker kit will run over $1000 as well, and you still need machine work to put it in including balancing since the cheap ones arent balanced.

So right now you are at roughly $2000 to get where the Cleveland is already. Machine work on either one will run between $800 and $1200 for bore, resize the rods, install good rod bolts, and balancing with new pistons, on either engine in a stock type rebuild. Although the stroker kits will not need new rod bolts nor will they need resized. That is a savings of between $80 and $200 depending on the shop that does the work.

You can go with aftermarket valves in the Cleveland head, a new set of springs, and a valve job for well under $1000. Mine were $700 for the 2V and Ferrea valves with Comp Cams springs.

Cams cost about the same for a hydraulic flat tappet cam, but a hydraulic roller will be double that for just the cam. Not much difference in price there, but it still needs to be added to the bottom line of both engines.

I guess the short story is you will spend roughly double building a stroker than you will a .030 over 2V Cleveland with a mild hydraulic cam and aftermarket intake. You dont need aftermarket heads, since the ones you have on it will work fine, and a W with stock heads is pretty hard up for airflow.

As for putting one in your 67, use the mounts that are holding the 302 right now, and a set of headers for a 71 Mustang with the 351C. They will bolt right up and clear everything. How do I know? Well there is a 2V Cleveland sitting in my 67 right now.

For the price of the core, provided it isnt cracked or beyond repair, the only way you can build a cheaper power plant is to leave the 302 nearly stock and just do a basic rebuild on it. The brackets and pullies are different between the 302 and the Cleveland, so that might be one part you would need to source.

What do you want to do with the engine? More power or just another powerplant to move the car? The Cleveland has a ton more potential than the 302 does, but more power in either will cost a lot more money. A near stock rebuild that makes more power is the least expensive way to go, its just how much more power do you want/need?

Dropping a 390 in is a bunch more work and changing things. Including the transmission, the mounts, adding a passenger side torque box, heavier radiator, and all the FE specific parts. Sure it can be done, and they can make good power, but its pricey to say the least. If you have a bunch of it laying around it isnt a big thing, but finding everything and then paying for it will eat up plenty of budget, and then a 347 looks damn nice money wise.

 

Wow, thanks for all the info. So are you saying the 2V C heads are actually better than the 4? I have heard it both ways from different people. Some say the 4V heads are to big, others say that they have bigger oil ports in them than the 2V and are better?
I guess I will pretty much throw the 390 idea out, as I don't want something where I will have to change too much. The one Clevo I was looking at sold, but I am finding them all day on craigslist around me for fairly cheap.
As far as what I want, I am looking for something I can do cheap (but not to cheap) and have decent power (something that will see the strip ever now and again, and the occasional light to light, but also street able enough to drive everyday. (my worn 302 was actually pretty sufficient for being almost stock).
So my plans now, find a decent 351C to drop in preferably one that is still running so I can wait about a year for the rebuild. And save the 302 I have now and rebuild it down the road and save as a backup or sell it.

So is there a year that is better than others for the 351C? Obviously I don't want a 74 b/c of emissions and lower compression.
Most of the ones I have found are 70's and 71's, are they the same or is one better?
Thanks.

 

If you're looking at a 2v there are all about the same. If it's a 4v you want to get 1970 or early '71 only. All 2v heads are open chamber whereas all '70 and early '71s are closed.