not my car. issue happens similar on a 66 mustang auto as well as a 64 ford pickup

had a post a short time ago. this time we have more info:

a) i read once it might be a problem with vacuum line between automatic trans and manifold. this car doesn't have one. that maybe the problem? if there should one, what is it for?
b) the car drives absolutely fine. only when you brake for a stop it stalls.
c) we bypassed neutral safety switch to be able to start in neutral as well (not only park)

the following is no problem when cold, but happens as soon as warm:
when started in neutral and put into 'D' car stalls
started again in neutral put into 'D' no problem. switch from there to neutral to reverse, car stalls
back to neutral to start car and when started back into reverse, no problem.

it is very very weird. anyone ever had that problem ?

 

Kalli,
In drive, the idle should be set to around 550 to 650 rpm. In neutral(park), it should be around 850 to 1000. If it's exceeding this, then it could be a TC problem with locking up too soon or a mechanical problem in the trans causing the engine to labor and stall.

 

you might try jacking it up by the diff so the wheels are off then ground and then putting it in drive. If it stalls still and wheels dont spin...that might help point to a specific problem.

-Gun

 

not tried but i have 20$ on won't stall then. it feels a bit like if the car would be in gear. it's pushing hard against the brakes. nearly as if you would put a manual into first and let the clutch go. not as extreme but you have to brake hard and it seems the engine stalls because of that

 

i think we have 850 in park at idle. i'll tell him to up it a bit as well as have it run a bit richer.
i'll get back to you/. gonna try that tomorrow

 

Automatics have an idle solenoid or anti dashpot that is found on the side of the carb. Its sole purpose is to ensure that the rpms stay at idle once the car decelerates from drive to a stop. You'll see that the plunger is activated electrically and it "sticks out" just enough to prevent the throttle linkage to return all the way to curb idle position. This ensures that the car won't stall as it revs down from being under load. The idles solenoid or dash pot is either not working, removed, or the throttle linkage needs adjusting. Do a google search under "images" for a Motorcraft carb (2100 example) and you'll find links provided by Autozone that show exploded drawings of Ford carbs. You'll see the component I am talking about. I don't remember off the top of my head the procedure to adjust and prove the operation of the throttle idle solenoid, but you can find it on the net. From what you have described, I'd say this is your problem.

 

In the old days before automotive electronics they used mechanically damped idle return dashpots. Their purpose was to slowly let the throttle return to idle when decelerating which prevents an overly rich condition in the intake & exhaust system. Not all ford 2100's had this option.