My first mustang!!
That's also taking off all the bondo, treating the rust, and the rear valance and straightening out the trunk bed from where it was hit (that's the reason for the bondo, to cover up the wrinkles from where it was hit). Do you still think that's too much? Please let me know so I can maybe talk the guy down or know what to go by to get some other quotes.
Here is where we started;
https://mustangforums.com/forum/classic-mustangs-tech/305531-what-i-did-this-weekend.html
$1200 for blast and prime.
https://mustangforums.com/forum/classic-mustangs-tech/305531-what-i-did-this-weekend.html
$1200 for blast and prime.
I will look into getting other quotes. RGH69: I heard that if the rust was treated "chemically" that it was better and more sure of getting all the rust than if it were blasted. What do you think is better? Anyone else have suggestions feel free...
Have you thought about doing some of the work yourself? Not saying its all easy but some of it is. Removing all the current body fill is something you could easily do in your backyard or garage with some sandpaper and a sander. Welding isn't rocket science but you do need to read and practice a bit and is not that expensive to get setup. Full length floor pans cost about 60 bucks each, long pans about 40 and short pans are 30. Sheet metal is cheap, MIG welding setup about 500 or less and 90% of the rest is labor.
Seriously.. whats he mean by "Treating the rust"? Does that mean the shop will cut out all the rust and replace it with new metal (properly), sand it down and use a rust converter on it, treat it with an encapsulator like POR-15, cover it with fiberglass or 'bondo' or simply sand it down and primer over it?
Will they be using a cheap single stage of primer or a good quality 2 part Epoxy primer? Will they be doing all the sanding prep work to make it ready for paint? If so do they paint or have a paint shop they deal with/recommend? Is that shop OK with someone else doing the sanding or do they want to do the final sanding and then paint themselves.
You really need to ask them what they will be doing. Know how it is being 'fixed' and repaired. If your not sure about something ask them. If they don't want to give you the time to answer your questions quickly find another shop.
It never hurts to have a number of quotes. You may find you click with someone else or get a better deal elsewhere.
Don't get discouraged and good luck!
Seriously.. whats he mean by "Treating the rust"? Does that mean the shop will cut out all the rust and replace it with new metal (properly), sand it down and use a rust converter on it, treat it with an encapsulator like POR-15, cover it with fiberglass or 'bondo' or simply sand it down and primer over it?
Will they be using a cheap single stage of primer or a good quality 2 part Epoxy primer? Will they be doing all the sanding prep work to make it ready for paint? If so do they paint or have a paint shop they deal with/recommend? Is that shop OK with someone else doing the sanding or do they want to do the final sanding and then paint themselves.
You really need to ask them what they will be doing. Know how it is being 'fixed' and repaired. If your not sure about something ask them. If they don't want to give you the time to answer your questions quickly find another shop.
It never hurts to have a number of quotes. You may find you click with someone else or get a better deal elsewhere.
Don't get discouraged and good luck!
I agree with Adrenolin. I learned on a 1968 Mustang fastback. I bought a cheap little mig welder and some body hammers and dollys. It is not hard to learn, but will take time. Your biggest challenge will be your impatience to get it on the road. That's normal, so take one piece at a time as a project and make it yours. Before you know it you will have the car together and have new confidence in your abilities. Good luck, you have a great little project there!
Does anyone know if this kind of sander would work? If so, what grit of sandpaper would I need? Here's the link (hope it works): http://www.blackanddecker.com/Produc...roductID=14972


